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![]() | Home > Technical > Front wheel bearing - special tools needed |
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1569 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Do$h Any comments on this one
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1569 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jules if you decide to DIY and it's successful I may well be interested in hiring it from you |
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1569 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jules it's not a FAG puller
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 5148 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's quite a price difference (and wouldn't be cost effective for me) - the ones on ebay are around only £75 !! Are they made of cheese I wonder? Jules |
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1569 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That is the question you buy one and let me know how you get on, I wouldn't hesitate to get one if I knew they worked |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 5148 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
MMRover says he bought a "quality FAG bearing" kit. But I dont know from where, how much or which model? - yes 82mm seems the correct size.
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Linds Hanson Member Since: 01 Nov 2015 Location: Cornwall Posts: 38 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nearside front LH if noisey on RH turns |
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Linds Hanson Member Since: 01 Nov 2015 Location: Cornwall Posts: 38 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 719 ![]() ![]() |
As it happens, I had to get a front wheel bearing replaced a few weeks ago and it was an apparently simple task carried out by my local tyre shop/garage. Total cost was £150 plus VAT. |
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MRRover75 Member Since: 13 Jan 2017 Location: Sandnes Posts: 328 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Which FAG kit is that ? Im thinking of doing it myself.[/quote] Those videos above does it the hard way.... The answer is yes and no. Its not a direct fit, but you can use the flange, screw, nut and large washers together with a suitable piece of pipe and some pieces of iron to get it going. The procedure is quite different for the rear bearing, but the principle is the same: Pull the bearing out with the screw by placing the load on the correct faces, then drive it back in with the screw by putting the load on the correct faces. And the best thing, You do not need to take down the complete strut to replace the bearing. We all know that this easily gets into a 3-day ordeal on older cars.... Just remove the brake parts and drive shaft by removing the centre nut and bolts for the lower arms and pull it out. 1. Put the new bearing in the freezer. 2. Get the flange out of the bearing using a slide hammer i.e. Can also be punched out from behind using a socket/pipe that have a proper fit against the flange stud, but be careful to not damage it. Remove the inner race from the flange stud by splitting it nearly through with a grinder and then use a cold chisel. Clean up the flange/stud, then put it in the freezer. 3. Use the nut, washer, large flange and screw from the kit together with a piece of tube that has an ID approx. Ø85mm and length 50mm to pull the bearing out of the hub. Clean the hub bore. 4. Drive the new bearing into the hub by using the old bearing as a spacer against the large flange. Screw through bearing and hub, retained on the back side using the nut and a steel bar with a Ø22mm hole drilled through. 5. Use the large flange, screw, nut, washers and necessary spacers to drive the flange into the bearing. Have done this 5-6 times and works perfect. Might have some pictures somewhere.... This is similar, but by using a DIY tool, consisting of a M20 threaded rod, nuts and different pieces of metal ![]() ![]() Just need to note that this is a pretty simplified procedure.... A good DIY-er will figure out the rest ![]() |
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