Might be jumping to conclusions but sounds like a false empty tank signal inhibiting engine starting. Jules

I'm thinking the same. The ECM does implement a run dry prevention strategy. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

That is fascinating. Good spotting on the fuel gauge jules, I'll be following this one with interest.
I wonder if it's related to the fuel sender wiring harness advisory LTB00566v6?

TECHNICAL_BULLETIN_LTB00566v6

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12990.ht...;start=120 Jules

If you read both threads that the OP has posted then the Fuel Gauge Tank wiring known error should be investigated.
--- I am hoping that the OP will reply with some more info about his car, and importantly his thoughts and any outcome of his final fix------

I noticed this info in FL2 Manual - not the problem but worth knowing.

Fuel gauge
Once the fuel level has dropped to the point
where the range is approximately 80 km (50
miles) the low fuel warning indicator will
illuminate.

CAUTION
Never allow the vehicle to run out of
fuel. The resulting mis-fire may cause
serious damage to the catalytic
convertor. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The manual also says this.

"The fuel tank has a useable capacity of 68.0 liters (18.0 US gallons) and is designed with a run dry strategy to prevent air
entering the HP fuel system."

I'm unsure if the run dry strategy is mechanical or electronic, but I'm sure I read that the ECM shut the engine down to prevent air entering the fuel system. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I am sure that I have read somewhere that in the start sequence the Fuel Pump Relay (or Fuel Pump Control - for petrol) is called prior to Engine Cranking, and Engine Cranking is dependent on a signal confirming this action from the Pump or Control Unit.

I know from previous experience on my FL2 XS that low fuel gauge faults result in 'Reduced Performance' actions. As I said at the time another little known feature.

I have searched in vain for an authoritive answer, but the nearest I can find is on this website.

Faulty Fuel Gauge
We are coming across this issue quite frequently on the Freelander 2. If you have noticed that your fuel gauge is reading incorrectly then this can be caused by a faulty fuel sender unit (there are 2 in each tank) or a faulty ECU. However, we have found that often it is just an issue with the connectors that attach the wiring loom to the fuel sender unit that corrode giving intermittent signals and fortunately these can be replaced. It is a common fault with a number of Land Rover models. Be careful if you are thinking that you can live with a wrong reading on the dash because if the ECU thinks the tank is empty it will stop the engine to prevent any damage and not start again and you can guarantee it will do it at the most inconvenient time and location.

Repair Wiring Connections to In Tank Fuel Pump (Genuine LR) – £220 inc. VAT
Replace Single Fuel Pump Sender Unit (Genuine LR) – £320 inc VAT
Replace Both Fuel Pump Sender Units (Genuine LR) – £420 inc VAT

https://www.kmotors.co.uk/common-faults/freelander/ FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

[quote="Grimdog"]

IanMetro wrote:

The fuel gauge actions certainly look dodgy to me but as I have a later FL2 I cannot do a live check.

I have just checked my 2010 model. With the ignition on the fuel gauge reads correctly. Upon starting the car the fuel gauge remains rock steady and continues to do so once the engine is running.

Grimdog, You may be right, and maybe it is indeed an 'hareng rouge'.

The main clues are in this previous thread from the OP ---

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post431682.html#431682

--- the OP says his 07 TD Auto FL2 suffered has suffered from low power at low revs (LIMP Home?)
and lower down has a post regarding an erratic fuel gauge.

Luckily in that post he says he has an OBD Scanner on order, so we await to see further clues and what the car thinks is wrong. Although I can't see any OBD Fault Codes have been posted since that time.

It seems that he managed to get about 3 months before troubles started, then another 2 before it came to a halt. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

We wait with bated breath Jules

We may be waiting a whike. The OP has not contributed to this thread since the initial post

Yes, why ask for help, then not have the decency to acknowledge the help received.
 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Don't Complain - Just look at the hours of amusement we have had,

and the companionship gained! FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)