I’d be grateful for anyone’s bright ideas. 2014 Diesel 2.2 Freelander 2.

We had the hydraulic cylinder at the clutch pedal end of the clutch system replaced a few months ago. It’s been fine since, aside from a slight “graunch” from the pedal initially which went away quickly. I drove the car today with no problem. Parked up. 2 hours later back to the car and when pressing the clutch pedal prior to starting the engine, it sprung instantly down to the floor. The spring fitted to the pedal held it there. Using my hands I could get it back up again.

This failure mode feels quite different to the increasingly spongy feeling we had when the hydraulic seals in the clutch pedal end cylinder failed before. Pumping the pedal now (by hand since you need to pull it back up) has no effect at all. The fluid reservoir is not right up to the top but it almost at MAX.

It could be a hydraulic failure but it happened very suddenly and when the car was at rest. There had been no sign of any impending deterioration of clutch action. And now there is no resistance when moving the pedal, other than from the spring in the passenger compartment.

I’m wondering if there is some pin or similar fixing to transfer the thrust from the pedal to the cylinder piston which could have failed or become dislodged.

Or any other bright ideas. It’s AA to our garage on Monday but if it’s another hydraulic failure then it’s unlikely to be quick to fix and we’re going on holiday in it in 10 days. Or were supposed to be…

Thanks.

Could it be an air lock ?

Download the Repair & Wiring Manual the Manual Clutch system description starts at page 1391.

I have no experience of driving a manual FL2, but from your description of the fault and experiences of early Diaphragm Clutches on previous cars, I would suggest that the diaphragm spring is going 'over centre' and needs adjustment or refitting.

From what I remember, this was a symptom of excessive clutch plate wear.

The design of the clutch spring used to automatically take up the change of position due to normal clutch wear until it suddenly started going over centre. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks. Closer look this morning has hydraulic fluid in the pan under the engine. I fear the slave cylinder has given up the ghost.

Unfortunately if you have fluid below the gearbox, it does suggest the concentric has failed. Check the hydraulic lines first though, as it might just be a failed line. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks for your help everyone. The concentric slave had failed.

Garage job then or are you DIYing it ?

Probably worth replacing the clutch and crankshaft oil seal whilst the gearbox is off.

How many miles has it done, out of interest ? Jules

Definitely a garage job in my case. And yes, we've done the clutch and crankshaft oil seal because the latter was already leaking. £1,300 all in. If one can be pleasantly surprised by that sized bill, I was pleasantly surprised.

128,000 miles. 14 plate.