My fl2 just cut out with no spluttering. As usual the RAC came out said it will likely be the pump and got me home. Had code come up fuel level 1&2 sensors down. Stripped out the tank changed the pump and was getting good reading from the level censors in the range of 1020- 40 ohms. Fuel gauge reading just above 1/4 full after putting 5 gallon into the tank.
Still the engine will not start.

1. Replaced the fuel filter and bled the system. Still not working.
2. Checked if any fuel going to the fuel rail or injectors No fuel at all.
3. Stripped out the pump to do a bench teat using a drill to turn the shaft. Fuel coming out strong from the high pressure side and return side.
4 When i fix the pump back into the engine, no
Pressure at all.
5. To eliminate any air or supply issues I gravity fed the pump but still no pressure when cranking the engine. It seem as if when the pump is bolted onto the engine it is not pumping.
6. Looking at the end of the exhaust camshaft i cannot see and breakage as reported by others on this site unless it is broken on the further along the camshaft.

I am thinking of trying to rig up the pump off the engine using a drill to drive the shaft. This is a bit difficult as the pipe to the fuel rail is limited and would need a temp pipe to fit between the pump and the fuel rail.

I am running out of more things to try. I do not mind buying a new pump if it is going to solve the problem. Any thoughts , help, advice etc would be appreciated. I cannot understand why i get no pressure pressure when the pump is on the engine other than a broken exhaust camshaft which is not obvious from looking at the dog drive on the end of the cam. Do these cams break further down the shaft.

Tony

Does it crank over or does it do absolutely nothing.


There was a discussion recently related to this .
IIRC the fuel pump is prohibited from delivering high pressure to the rail if conditions are not met for starting. Jules

Last edited by jules on 23rd Jul 2023 1:52 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Yes it cranks over fine.

There is a photo on the 3rd page of this thread. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39234-30.html
The OP of the thread thought that it looked fine but mistakenly took the black area as being ok when they should have seen a machined surface.

I will do a more detailed look at the end of the cam shaft and report back.👍

Is the little drive coupler present? They are known to break and sometimes dissappear into the head bolt recess. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yes the yoke/coupler is present and in good condition.

Have you replaced the crank position sensor? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yes have replaced that and getting rev readings on cranking

Ok. So you will need a diagnostic capable of reading live data from the fuel rail. This will tell you if rail pressure is being generated. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

How did you get on with this Tony?