lrman wrote:

I hardly said you don't know what you are talking about. In fact just the opposite in a my later post. Fact is I don't know you and what your experience is so I made an assumption. I got it wrong, nothing unusual in that Apologies if that offends you.

As to string boxes, if it isn't accurate enough then that is down to the user, not the technique. I mean, plenty of race teams use them. It was a while ago but I watched a F1 team aligning their car with one. How accurate do you need it to be on a freelander?

Why not refresh the bushes, which is where the alignment shift occurred in the first place? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Ultimately the bushes will be replaced, but isn't alignment to accomodate wear that occurs before final failure?
There are a lot of moving parts in an "axle" - wouldn't it be possible for a little wear in a number of components be possible?

Hang on Let's go back to first things first - which bushes? MY11 SD4 SE Auto

I always thought that the front wheel toe in/out changed slightly with power/braking on a FWD vehicle due to positive/negative torque. Also that this variation gets worse as the joints/bushes wear with age.
I can remember when FWD vehicles first came onto the scene, lots of discussion about about the lessening off the toe out compared with RWD.

I believe that in the 1960s (and before) cars used to be set up for RHD or LHD to offset the road camber.
My new RHD Vauxhall Victor had to be reset by my local Dutch Dealer to cope with driving on the other side of the road. Before this change my car pulled drastically to the right. Interestingly they must have set it to a neutral setting as I had no trouble driving the car once back in the UK. (after several years in Germany)

I found this interesting article explaining why and what all the alignment angles do.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post433854.html#433854 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)