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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4954

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Badger51 wrote:
@jules, what usually happens is that one of the “C” clips break & the link just disconnects itself. That’s what happened to mine several years ago. I even found the broken bits lying in the chassis!

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35091.html


Thanks.

I lubed my actuator arm as per JLR manual with a high temp grease, a couple of years ago. Not checked it since - maybe I ought to have the a look next time Im underneath. Jules

Post #433249 10th Jun 2023 10:02 am
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Worms



Member Since: 31 Oct 2017
Location: Highlands
Posts: 635

Scotland 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

Once you know where it is, the actuator lever is easily checked (by feel) through the wheel arch, without removing the inner arch panel.

I've now installed a generic clip and time will tell if it holds - I was only trying clips for size with a view to installing it open-side-down but once it slipped on, it was going to be much more difficult to get back off, so I'm afraid it is going to stay upside down until it comes off on its own!

It was the 5mm e-clip from this set:

 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Post #433277 11th Jun 2023 12:54 pm
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