Thanks for the update.

Let us know if the P0016 comes back if you clear it.

With the T25 blocking the hole for the oil to return to the pan you may find that the oil filter is soaked in oil and it makes a mess when you change the filter next time.

Good luck

Paul

My recommendation for the oil filter housing is to get a genuine Land Rover part or a genuine Volvo part.

The Land Rover Part number for the oil filter housing is LR041257


I found one on clearance from a company called Rovers North with a 43% discount


I would buy that part for $159 +TAX +Shipping

Here is the link

https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/lr041257...mpi_petrol


I don't think that I have bought from them in the past

But they seem legit.




Good luck


Paul

So ran the car this morning and purred like a kitten without any error until everything warmed up and the error came back. Am a bit at a loss right now. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
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If the Variable Valve timing solenoid fails then it will set the code.

Some codes won't be set until the right conditions are met (i.e. the engine is warm)

Quote:

Hello... In closing I did replace the oil control solenoid. Found a Gates VVS194 for $66.00 and runs perfect. Turns out the P0016 and P0018 are triggered by the bank 1 and 2 (intake cam for VVT diagnostic purposes) are triggered by the intake cam not being in sync with the exhaust cam. It did take a bit for the ECU to sort itself out but all is well now.

I actually replaced it with a Gates solenoid already but now I am wondering if it maybe is wiring related. I will let the car cool off again and start tonight to see if the cold/warm is replicated and will do a wiring double check.

The fact that the actual vs expected seen on the odb reader tells me that the sensors are actually working correct ? 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
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As Paul mentioned, the computer may wait until warmed up before setting certain codes, even if it detects an issue immediately. A wiring issue could present that way, and I've found rodent damage on this car... not sure if the volvo wire insulation is extra tasty, because they don't bother my other cars which aren't daily drivers

Remember the ECU is comparing the timing of the intake camshaft and the exhaust camshaft and the crankshaft.

With that in mind you should think about cleaning the connection for the crankshaft sensor.

MAF cleaner or similar should work.

This sensor is under the AC compressor and if your vacuum pump is leaking then it may be oil contaminated.

Don't give up you will figure it out

Here is the location of the sensor.

Click image to enlarge

That's next on my list. The vacuum booster had been leaking pretty bad previously (surprisingly an easy fix) . I would expect that with a dirty / faulty crank sensor you'd get both a p0016 and p0018 though. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
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The Land Rover / Volvo Engineers tried to make the codes useful for debugging.

But in this case I think they came up a bit short.
(albeit if their goal was to get to the end of the warranty then they met that requirement)

If you read thru the link to the other board you will see that the other LR2 had 16 18 and a third code and fixed it all with only a new Gates Variable Cam Timing Sensor.

However that LR2 did not have a vacuum pump leak.


For reference my LR2 is close to 150,000 miles and I have never rebuilt the Vacuum Pump and I've never seen any of these codes.


Keep us posted and if possible take some pictures.


Take care

Paul

Will do .. I honestly like a good challenge and I am in no rush to get this car working. It has to be something simple that I am missing. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Maybe you know the answer on this one @p_gill



I am particularly interested in these 4 values of the live data and when starting cold the top 2 are closely aligned with #3 at 0 till the engine warms up. Presumably when it warms up and 3 gets close to the #4 angle #1 should open wider? I have now had a few times seen #1 end up being close to 80 when 3 is at 20 degrees and the engine ran really smooth at that time without errors.

When I stopped the car and restarted .. 1 defaulted to 60 degrees again and it threw the p0016 again. This, in my mind, seems to indicate that the vvt is occasionally working ruling out a physical timing issue. I haven't gotten to cleaning the crankshaft sensor ( I received a new one in the mail today) as I am reroofimg one of.my sheds.

Am I off with my thinking here? 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
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I haven't checked the function of the variable valve timing on my 3.2.

Right now my Daughter drives the Land Rover and my Niece drives the S80.

If my scan tool can make the measurements that you are looking at I will try to get some data for you.


I do have a recommendation for you.

I believe that you replaced item #2

And that you swapped item #1 and #3

If that is accurate I recommend that you return #1 and #3 to their original locations

Click image to enlarge

Yeah .. swapped 1 and 3 the other day but will switch them back today to see if it makes a difference. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

It's gotta be oil / sludge related. I swapped the cam sensors around today but the error popped right up when I started it. I had changed my oil ro 5w40 last week with full synthetic and actually just left the cat idling in my driveway for a few hours.

Turned it off and about a hour and a half later fired it up and behold .. the error didn't trigger. I noticed that the base intake angle now reads 80 which is I think what it would be around when the cam opens up after warming up.




Since the cam is open now I am gonna let it idle this way for a bit and hope the oil can do a little cleaning this way too. Not a 100 percent it's the issue but since I have replaced most of the sensors and the issue is random, it's something I am leaning towards. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Small update. Changed the oil again this afternoon. At the last one I went from 5w30 to 5w40 and added Paul's torx fix for the oil filterhousing to see if that would make a change with oil pressure.

I was surprised to see how well the torx fix keeps the oil in the housing actually and prevents draining. That might actually be good enough for a permanent fix. I put back the gasket and spring setup since I managed to fix mine but I will keep that in the back of my head in case I need it again.

The oil wasn't that bad yet, bear in mind I really only used it idling the car for 6-8 hours and let it clean where it can but definitely picked up contamination. I switched for the new oil to 0w30 and the thing purred like a kitten on startup with the vvt cam opening to 80 degrees on warmup. Doesn't mean it's fixed but somewhat encouraging to see. Still think that this is oil/sludge related rather than anything mechanical. I will do a few cold start cycles to see if I get the same results. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....