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Rommel



Member Since: 20 Aug 2017
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England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Fuji White

I keep mine on a Cetek battery maintainer so is always up to full capacity as I rarely use the FL2 so its keeps the battery in good condition and even the Eco stop/start always works (though I switch it off anyway) 2013 FL2 XS.
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Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Post #433035 2nd Jun 2023 6:22 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3157

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Nodge68 wrote:
I don't think a 75Ah battery is sufficient for these vehicles. They require far to much energy, which a small battery doesn't deliver for very long.
My original battery was always showing 12.2 to 12.5 V depending on the time of year, which is basically flat or worn out, so I changed it for something I knew would be more suitable.
I went with a Yuasa HSB110, which is rated at 85Ah, and 800 CCA. Yes it was over £100, but I'd rather spend that than be stuck with a battery of questionable capacity.



Seems a good idea Nodge, does the larger battery just fit or does it require some modifications?

I think if I was designing the FL2 from new. I would have separated the electronics power from the general car 12v system.

The Stop/Start version of the FL2 did recognise this problem and introduced measures to safeguard the 'quality of the power supply' to the electronics. (and stop the random 'starting phase' faults)

If you read this, you will see the system had a few extra features that would have benefitted all FL2s.

https://www.greencarcongress.com/2008/10/landrover-intro.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #433037 2nd Jun 2023 8:09 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Ive got a Varta F19 in my SD4 - fits fine.
85Ah, 800 CCA Jules

Post #433040 2nd Jun 2023 9:56 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5063

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

interestingly the wiring to the battery is different - with some extra wires on my 2014 model





The box with green stuff is rodent bait - leave it there all year round Jules


Last edited by jules on 2nd Jun 2023 10:09 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #433041 2nd Jun 2023 10:00 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

double post Jules

Post #433043 2nd Jun 2023 10:08 am
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PRadd



Member Since: 09 Apr 2020
Location: East Lancs
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United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Dynamic Manual Santorini Black

I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
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1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Post #433044 2nd Jun 2023 10:24 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
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United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

jules wrote:
interestingly the wiring to the battery is different - with some extra wires on my 2014 model





The box with green stuff is rodent bait - leave it there all year round

The additional wiring is for the battery monitoring system, which my earlier non stop-start doesn't have.

PRadd wrote:
I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is?


The lower capacity is due to the lower plate count in the cells. Basically the Absorbative Glss Mat (the AGM part) takes up space between the plates, so AGM batteries often have 1 less plate, hence the drop in Ah rating.
It's pretty irrelevant as the AGM won't loose capacity so quickly, which means it will continue to make its Ah rating for longer than the standard battery. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
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Post #433051 2nd Jun 2023 3:41 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5063

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

"The additional wiring is for the battery monitoring system, which my earlier non stop-start doesn't have."

My SD4 doesnt have stop/start either, so I guess they just included battery monitoring in all the late models whether required or not. Jules

Post #433056 2nd Jun 2023 11:46 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
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United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Battery monitoring was fitted regardless of stop-start being fitted or not on the later models. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #433058 3rd Jun 2023 8:46 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Thumbs Up Jules

Post #433059 3rd Jun 2023 8:51 am
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PRadd



Member Since: 09 Apr 2020
Location: East Lancs
Posts: 366

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Dynamic Manual Santorini Black

Nodge68 wrote:


PRadd wrote:
I fitted a Yuasa AGM YBX9115 which also fits perfectly - 80Ah, 800CCA. I needed an AGM as mine is a manual with stop/start - I believe the Varta equivalent is the F21 with the same 80Ah, 800 CCA spec, interesting that the AGM batteries seem to carry 5Ah less than non AGM - I wonder why this is?


The lower capacity is due to the lower plate count in the cells. Basically the Absorbative Glss Mat (the AGM part) takes up space between the plates, so AGM batteries often have 1 less plate, hence the drop in Ah rating.
It's pretty irrelevant as the AGM won't loose capacity so quickly, which means it will continue to make its Ah rating for longer than the standard battery.


That makes sense, Thanks Nodge.. the collective knowledge here is great Thumbs Up 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Post #433061 3rd Jun 2023 9:59 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3157

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White
My 'Make the Battery Last a Bit Longer Failed'

Nodge68 wrote:
I don't think a 75Ah battery is sufficient for these vehicles. They require far to much energy, which a small battery doesn't deliver for very long.
My original battery was always showing 12.2 to 12.5 V depending on the time of year, which is basically flat or worn out, so I changed it for something I knew would be more suitable.
I went with a Yuasa HSB110, which is rated at 85Ah, and 800 CCA. Yes it was over £100, but I'd rather spend that than be stuck with a battery of questionable capacity.



Following the initial failure to start, I kept going for a bit but I was having to use my new Battery-Booster and/or Battery-Charger more and more often.

Family medical problems then intervened and I felt I needed an 100% reliable car.
I looked back at the previous Forum replies that you all had given me, and after looking at Nodge's recommendation I decided to up my replacement battery capacity.

I managed to get a 80Ah 700 CCA Battery for £99 (inclusive of fitting on my drive and 3 year Warranty) from Halfords. It was slightly longer but fits easily onto original fittings and tray, in fact it looks more at home than my old original 74Ah 640 CCA one.

On my in-car voltage monitor, I have noticed that my 'resting voltage' has risen from about 12.1v to 12.6v or more and the starter and car now always leap into life immediately.

One thing I still note is that my FL2 still struggles a bit to hit the full 15v, when running, if I load up the system with the full air-conditioning. I do however use a lot of accessory 12v power with front and rear cameras, additional Sat-Nav, Cool-Box, Rechargable -Light, -Walkie Talkies, and a Phone.
As the (sometimes) 14.5v is still above the nominal battery voltage I take it that the battery is still getting some charge. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #434055 13th Jul 2023 4:53 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

The alternator output is under ECM control, so will maintain the battery at a charge voltage of about 14.5 Volts, regardless of what is switched on. If the vehicle has a HFS and PTC heater, the alternator will be rated at 180 Amps, which is much more than you could ever pull by plugging stuff in to the vehicle, or even what you can turn on from the vehicle controls. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #434068 14th Jul 2023 2:15 pm
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Jagracer



Member Since: 22 Feb 2019
Location: east anglia
Posts: 198

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Bali Blue

When I had battery problems, ie. 11.9 volts, I bought a 110E battery, 80amp hour and 800 ca. Its a 2008 car, but needed the extra earth lead to the starter bolt. The later cars only charge to 85% capacity according to the manual, so a bigger capacity battery and alternator is obviously a good idea. I put a 200 amp alternator in off a later car, as it fits. As rightly said, they use a lot of juice to start because of the glow plugs always being on. One glow plug out cause winter worries. You can, by cutting the front wall out of the battery tray, get a Transit Diesel battery in by taking out the Airbox and queazing it all in. A No. 72 battery is only any good on a petrol engine. If the car will not start, and the dianostics says no communication to the ecu, its the Starter Motor Solenoid stuck, as the computer does not finish the starting check, and throws a wobbly. I had that with a brand new starter motor. It seizes the engine, too.

Post #434096 16th Jul 2023 7:11 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

I have this on my TD4 MY07 which has now been on since i purchased the car back in 2017 so 7yrs to my knowledge think it's due to be renewed.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5110/

F19Varta seems to be the same output.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/f19/

What would you go with any and all answers welcome.

If you go by the make this is the list, which does not make sense really.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/Land_Rover-Freelander_2-Car-Battery

Post #443668 28th Jul 2024 9:19 am
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