Excellent illustrated write up of problem, and (importantly) how to fix.

We have had a few of these lately, it's a pity we haven't got a place (method) of keeping these in an indexed, special, file.

When people complete their query with what happened next it makes the FL2 Forum so much more useful.

Thank You. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

In the FFRR forum they have a folder called Wiki it’s where such procedures and part numbers etc are stored. Along with downloads for workshop Manuals etc etc

manuals etc are in a sticky thread here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

But there isnt a page specifically for repairs undertaken by forum members or youtube vids etc Jules

Thanks to all who have posted on this subject.
I have just had an engine light come up on my 2013 td4 so hopped down to my local garage for a diagnosis and have the following error codes, P245A-77 and P0409-17 so looks like I need an EGR soon.
Engine light turned off and has not reappeared. Anyone bought an EGR recently and know the part number I would be grateful? And the cost, please?

Quote:

jules wrote:

Update - All fixed.

Split the EGR unit and replaced the EGR valve (it comes with a new gasket).



Install reassembled EGR unit (mine being the later version needed a metal gasket at the cooler inlet/exhaust manifold)

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Used a mirror to see the 4 attachments which are really hard to get at, especially the most LH side one - which is an allan head screw

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I cut the short arm off a long allan key and then used a small socket to turn it. Plus an extending magnet to pick up the bolts I dropped frequently. And that reminds me - DO NOT let muck or nuts etc fall inside the inlet or exhaust manifolds -best to cover with tape

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Heated O2 sensor has to be removed - no special socket needed, just a 16mm open spanner.

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This clip on the coolant hose required a large mole wrench to spring it open - I couldnt get the leverage needed with a small mole wrench. The other coolant hose comes off easily.

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When I started up the car the new valve made a ticking sound (not heard before) and the codes all popped back up with 2 miles of driving - with P0403 being the first to appear followed by "restricted performance" mode.

Luckily a friend of a friend kindly came over and performed an Air Path Calibration this afternoon and all is now fine.

Total cost £167, plus lots of swearing and tea.

Quote:

Great thread and a big thank you for sharing your photos of the job makes it all clear, threads are always better with photos i think.

My FL2 has now got the dreaded EGR coolant leak issue. Local garage is quoting £1100 based on replacing the EGR cooler and the EGR. They say they do a lot of them on Freelanders and Evoques. Reading the thread it doesn't seem like others have replaced the cooler wholesale, so is this maybe overkill?

I think just replacing the whole unit is a bit of an easy way out. There's a gasket between the EGR valve and cooler, which can fail allowing coolant to bleed slowly into the intake. So £1100 for potentially a £5 gasket and an hour's labour is pretty expensive. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Great thread and write up Jules.
My 2013 td4 has recently thrown codes P0403 and P0405.
I was hoping it might be a simple case of cleaning an electrical connector or something (if only..!)
Looks like I will have to replace it which doesn't look much fun.

Best of luck
Like a lot of big car DIY jobs once done its easier the second time - but that second time seldom comes round. Jules

Having seen your brilliant 'how to' and various posts on the subject I'm thinking (hoping) it will be less of a ball ache than when I did the belts, pulleys and water pump.
I'm just gathering info to order the parts and wandering if you have the metal gasket part number to hand please? Just contemplating whether to replace the cooler at the same time while its out and split from the valve, or to just clean it... has yours been behaving itself since you did it?
Cheers, Rob.

jules wrote:

Out of curiosity what is the going rate for replacing the EGR unit on a FL2 ?

Did they run all the calibration routines after fitting? The EGR and TB both need calibration, or they can fail again, or can randomly put the engine into limp mode. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

They (Land Rover Indie) certainly said they had. No reason to doubt them (at this stage) - the car drove beautifully afterwards without caravan and then today's 100-ish miles home with the 'van on the hook.

If the car is behaving as it should, then it sounds like they've done the whole job correctly. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

RobP wrote:

Having seen your brilliant 'how to' and various posts on the subject I'm thinking (hoping) it will be less of a ball ache than when I did the belts, pulleys and water pump.
I'm just gathering info to order the parts and wandering if you have the metal gasket part number to hand please? Just contemplating whether to replace the cooler at the same time while its out and split from the valve, or to just clean it... has yours been behaving itself since you did it?
Cheers, Rob.

Jules, never mind for the gasket part number I just realised I misunderstood what you wrote in the write up