Wisdom and advice sought please!

FL2 2007 2.2 diesel auto. Been having odd intermittent problem. Idle can fluctuate and sometimes cuts out. Now won’t start or conks out just after start and now with REP.

Codes are:

P0103-22 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Temporary
P169F-00 Control module - Unused fault code Permanent
P2290-00 Injector control pressure to low. Permanent
P0087-21 Fuel rail/system pressure - too low. Permanent
P0087-22 Fuel rail/system pressure - too low. Permanent
P0087-23 Fuel rail/system pressure - too low. Permanent

Fuel filter was only replaced a few months ago with genuine part.

Thoughts please on what’s needing replaced? Cheers!

Andy

Have you checked to see if there is air entering the fuel lines.
Possible culprit the connections at the fuel filter, especially if it's not a genuine Purflex filter. Have a look at the clear fuel lines going to the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Will do sir! This afternoons task!

So… did a wee battery reset… checked all my connections to fuel filter. Spotted an air bubble which you can see in the video. Could be some other air… It’s started no problem and is sitting ticking over just fine. Is this air an issue / cause and how do I purge the fuel lines?

Took it out for a drive. Died several time. Same pressure fails back up. Sitting in drive in idle and it was stuttering away… produced this information … fluctuating fuel rail pressure. Causes?

Small air bubbles like that wouldn't cause the pressure fluctuations you appear to have. Could be the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the fuel rail. Don't know how to test it though. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

gasman wrote:

Could be the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the fuel rail. Don't know how to test it though.

Any other thoughts folks?? Many thanks!

Check the MAF is giving a decent reading. The fuel will reduce if the MAF sends a lower air flow reading back to the ECM. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Cheers Nodge. I replaced the MAF a few months ago… how would I test it?

Haven’t replaced the MAP sensor yet… would this be connected?

Cheers!

AC

Was the running issue there before the replacement MAF was fitted? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I’ve been chasing various faults… the more I do the worse it gets… started off with a ‘yap yap’ and symptoms of the 1800rpm hesitation - replaced new throttle body, crank shaft sensor, MAF sensor, fuel filters, air filter, turbo actuator and a number of fuel treatments…

Blanking the EGR seemed to get rid of the yap, but been cutting out with the blanking plate in or our.

Was considering getting the EGR mapped out…

I did run out of fuel last year, and it never cut out before then. Recovery stuggled to get it started with a spray, think the guy even used lynx deodorant! Another guy pulled the fuel through from one the metal pipes at the engine by undoing the bolts. Wondering if this fuel issue has got something to do with that?

Any advice would be great.. thank you

Cutting out could be a bad connection on the crank sensor. I've discovered that aftermarket sensors seem to have thinner pins, causing connection issues.

Just because you've replaced a part, doesn't guarantee it's ok, and with modern engines, replacing parts often requires an ECM calibration is carried out. For this engine an air path calibration is needed when MAF, MAP, Turbo or EGR valve is replaced. Not doing so will simply cause the ECM to set the wrong values to the readings it sees, creating more issues.

I'd fit old parts back on one at a time, then see how it runs. Alternatively carry out an air path calibration. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Cheers sir!

How do you do an air path calibration? Can’t seem to see any details on the site?

Thank you!

Ive had a look at this for the OP using my SDD setup. I ran all the recalibration modules for all of his new components and reset all of the codes and things seemed to be okay, but next day the symptoms have reappeared.

SDD puts the symptoms as 100% being an open circuit on the turbo solenoid, so will need to inspect that.

Its an auto and its quite disconcerting when the engine cuts out in drive as you lose all steering assist, have to stop the car, put it in park to restart etc. A few times it struggled to restart.

Other noticeable thing is the fuel pressure. I wondered if the LP lift pump might be faulty from being run dry, or indeed the camshaft driven HP pump?


Other set of tests on the airflow modules shows MAF, MAP EGR readings all HIGH at idle...

Lots to look at here but be surprised if all 3 of those sensors are faulty at once?!?














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