Hi.
Fl2 2008

Ran fine.
Took a bit longer to start Tuesday. Still drove fine.
Parked up. 4 hours later, no start.
But turned over as they normally do.. ching ching ching. Rapidly.

RAC came, tried Easy Start. Ran like a dog on it max 1000rpm, but still turned over fine.

Towed home.

She is now sounding different then any fl2 I've owned while cranking. Fresh battery.
I've measured the voltage drop while cranking. And seems to be within spec.

Fuel pressureon crank 480kpa
Rpm on crank 200rpm
Around 10v while cranking

Checked timing crank and cam. It's spot on still.

0 error codes.

Just scrapped a fl2 with similar issues, and now this



Last edited by Jw2000uk on 29th Apr 2023 5:36 am. Edited 2 times in total

480kpa rail pressure isn't anything like enough for injection to take place, that pressure wouldn't overcome the cylinder compression pressure.

Is there enough fuel in the tank? Does the gauge shown about ¼ tank? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi nodge.

I know 480kpa is nothing. And should be around 20000+kpa

I'm running it from a 25 litre drum of fresh fuel. To eliminate the saddle tank.

Fuel lines are full. Bleed with my vacuum from the filter leak back nipple.


It sounds like it's down on compression on 1 cylinder. Which is unbelievable considering it turned over fine before the easy start. And that was only for a few attempts by the RAC.

Last edited by Jw2000uk on 28th Apr 2023 7:18 pm. Edited 2 times in total

There's not a single code.

5v and 12v on the rail sensors.
Ohms test also fine.

Live data records RPM on cranking.. so the crank and cam are talking.

Ive just never heard a FL2 turn over like this with a decent battery and even with a one.

And it doesn't even attempt to raise fuel pressure thus obviously not allowing the injectors to fire

It sounds like it's down on compression on 1 cylinder, and as it has a very low fuel pressure. I'm thinking the exhaust cam has broken at the fuel pump drive end. Unfortunately you'll need to take the top off the engine or remove the fuel pump to check for that. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Removed the HP fuel pump to test/replace if needed.

And it came out all intact mate. The cam was turning the pump for sure.
I'll lift the rocker cover tomorrow I guess?

It's definitely down on compression in 1 cylinder. It's strange that a cylinder has low compression and there's no pump pressure.
It's possible a swirl flap has broken and is holding a valve open, but this wouldn't explain the loss of HP rail pressure. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Will check and remove flaps today mate.

Possibly down on pressure as the hp pump may have failed?
It feels slightly easier to turn by hand then the new one does.

I'll do all the checks, and fit the spare HP pump I've got. When I get to that point

Got a oscilloscope coming. To check cam/crank signals. Just need to learn how to use it :/.

Just noticed, the compression glow plug adapter is 8mm.

Don't have one of those in my kit. Typical.

I have a Halfords advanced 8mm deep socket 1/4" drive socket that a drilled out just for this job.

Genuine offer - you are welcome to borrow it & post it back to me when done, just PM me your name & address and I'll pop it in the post if you are interested.


Cheers
Brian

Thank you bud.

Would that fit a standard compression gauge?

My kit starts at m10.

Pm me if OK.

Sorry chap,

I may got the wrong end of the stick (not for the first time ) I thought you meant the socket to remove the glow plug, which is a 8mm deep socket that needs to be drilled out to accept the glow plug.

I'm afraid I can't help with an adaptor for a compression test gauge.

Sorry for the confusion

If you need the socket let me know



Cheers
Brian

Wrong end of the stick or not Cherokee.. it's people like you that make this forum great

Are you an ex Jeep owner by any chance? My previous was a Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Yep I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.2 diesel V reg

Agricultural & wallowy compared to LR FL2 but still good fun

Best of luck your FL2 issue.


Cheers
Brian

No problem Brian, I did think. How the he'll did he convert a 8mm socket to that lol.

UPDATE - inlet and exhaust cam are fine. Chain is fine.

Removed Inlet manifold, swirl flaps intact (removed them now)

Extra earth added

Will wait for a 8mm glowplug compression adapter to test compression.

And the amp clamp to test battery crank

1 question - leak off hose, when I suck or blow on the outlet. No air escapes. Is this normal? I've put psi pressure sucking on it. And still it just holds pressure.