That is exactly what happened when I lost my cylinder 1 flap. Everyone must have the same experience. It happened at about 150000km on mine.

Kirekapsa wrote:

Do tou posted video somewhere ,i am planing to remove flaps also,thank you

I have a few photos of the swirl flap removal if i find time over the next few days i will post them up in order.
1

That would be handy as I am about to do this job on Phoebe along with the glow plugs...

I did mine recently. Had to put some mole grips on the brass rod and drift it out with a wooden mallet. The flaps did not " fall" out, I had to break each one with some long nose pliers to extract them. You will see why when you get the first one out if it's anything like mine.

Is removing the swirl flap valve causing P2008 fault logged in ECU? I've disconnected mine, saw that error, connected it back again but error still persists

Unlikely, the ECM doesn't know they have been disconnected. However simply disconnecting them won't help, they need to be removed if you don't want them to break off and damage the engine. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I've replaced the intake manifold with the version that has no flaps at all from Jag motor My question is about the electronic valve that controls the flaps using vaccum. After removing it and blanking the pipe to vaccum pump, I got P2008 fault logged. Can I get rid of it or I have to connect that valve again and blank it too?

Keep the valve electrical conector connected, just plug the vac pipe. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hello colleagues, the forum helped me, I want to help back with some advice. I just took the intake manifold off to replace the burned out spark plugs, which made me cringe when I put the manifold on the table. One of the flaps simply fell out of the gallery along with the brass rod stub which was simply broken. I don't even want to think what would happen if the valve got into the cilinder
The plastic may melt, but not the rod piece. It is the valve opposite the vacuum actuator.






I easily removed the badly worn brass rod, then with pliers I broke off the other tabs and removed them. It happened at 130k miles, I strongly advise you to remove this time bomb from the engine at 100k miles at the latest. If the valve doesn't break, the rod definitely breaks! I don't want to refit the rod, is it ok if I remove the vacuum tube and seal the vacuum outlet from the vacuum regulator? Cut there and seal? Otherwise I don't think the internal holes left after removing the rod should be sealed. Only the actuator end must be sealed with the original coupling. what do you say?

You can leave all the vacuum lines is place. The vacuum motor will simply rotate the cam in the manifold, which must remain or air will leak in. It's of no consequence if the cam rotates, as it's not connected to anything if the rod is removed.
If you want to prevent the vacuum motor from operating, then simply push a suitable sized ball bearing into the pipe on the outlet side of the solenoid valve. Leave the inlet side vacuum pipe alone, as you don't want to risk the vacuum drawing in dust, water or anything else which will damage the vacuum pump. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Meanwhile I studied a little. This sophisticated system of blocking laminar flow in favor of vortex flow at low speeds and loads has this weak point, the weak plastic flaps and the undersized shaft. If I removed it, neither the vacuum pump nor the control solenoid valve have any role. The system did not modulate the angle of the flaps, it worked commanded by the ECU on the open or closed principle. The ECU commanded the opening of the flaps when the speed exceeded 1800 rpm and the load 15%. I don't need to refit either the vacuum hose or the rod, especially since it's broken and the whole assembly hasn't worked for a long time, as I found the rod actuation/rotation plastic arm broken, as seen in the photo .



Therefore the flaps played a crazy waltz prey to the variable air currents, therefore the shaft wore, thinned and finally broke at the level of the cylinder flap 1 , as I showed in the photos before. But I have seen at colleagues and multiple other forms of destruction of these plastic elements. It is not for nothing that the engine manufacturer removed the system at some point, knowing enough engines compromised by this unfortunate system. I will only fit the plastic spindle bearing and seal fuse. However the effectiveness of the system is debatable, the car ran perfectly without it. The holes left between the ports by removing the rod do not influence anything since they are not in the direction of the air flow and the pressure is equal throughout the intake manifold. Good idea with the bearing ball, but in the meantime I sealed the exit from the solenoid valve differently. Thank you,

The vacuum pump still has a role, as it's also used to give assistance to the brakes.
For this reason any pipes need sealing properly, or vacuum is reduced and contamination can enter the pump causing it to seize up, which will likely break the timing chain. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I know, that's why I sealed the vacuum line. Now I have to wait a week for the oil I put in to unlock the glow plugs to take effect so I can change them. Then I'm very curious if the very lucky, just-in-time removal of the swirl flaps will eliminate the mysterious power losses. Intermittent locking of the flaps in the closed position would also explain the presence of crankcase gas condensation in the intake valve actuator through the overpressure produced. Which forced the intake valve stem bearing.
Guys, get rid of this ill-conceived plastic system at the first opportunity, otherwise you might not be as lucky as I was!

Have you tried to release the glow plugs? They normally release ok, but obviously don't force them. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.