Replaced my lower engine mount a few days back. The old one have had its days. The rubber was completely torn of at one side. My knock is now gone I guess I was lucky with this one, but you all know about the LR fault balance? This means that some other issue will pop up soon....

Glad to hear it has sorted it.

I have a full service kit on order including a new genuine lower rear engine mount so if it has arrived by the weekend I will fit it then. I'll take it for a test run before I service the Haldex though, this will tell me if that was the issue.

I replaced all mounts at 120,000 miles, the bottom one had split.

Just out of interest is 120,000 miles normal time on other cars to replace mount or just freelander ? Thanks

I say 120,000 miles that's when I noticed it had split. It may have split earlier or maybe over time. If I hadn't looked it would still have been on today. Can't say it showed any symptoms or any improvement on replacing. I'd say the rubber had perished

Still waiting on my service parts to come in (delayed due to Easter hols) but as of Friday the knock has now been joined by the distinct noise of a worn wheel bearing...

...Which is frustrating as the bearing in question is less than 10'000 miles old!

I have also noticed, when i reverse into my driveway at the end of a journey, if the clonk happens I can feel a light tug in the steering wheel, like something in the front suspension has moved.

Just wondering what make is the noisy bearing

It was a fully assembled steering Knuckle with bering and hub already pressed in. I believe these are manfactured by Britpart...

Also, I have just seent the price difference. I paid £92 in Feb 2021, the same part is now almost £200!!

I replaced my two fronts with just before Christmas.

I was lucky to get two old new stock LR ones


With my old hubs, I had Febi bearings bought off e bay both replaced at a local garage for just £25 for the two. They said it took 25 ton pressure to press them out, They came out with a LOUD BANG. So I have them waiting in the shed if needs be.

Yes stuff is in pricing orbit.

ransoman wrote:

It was a fully assembled steering Knuckle with bering and hub already pressed in. I believe these are manfactured by Britpart...

Also, I have just seent the price difference. I paid £92 in Feb 2021, the same part is now almost £200!!

I also would advise to buy proper rear bearings separately and then install them. I used SKF bearings. Not very difficult to replace them if you have a hydraulic press, and different size sockets to press with. Pay attention to the right pressing-order, otherwise you will do what I did the first time - split the bearing in two parts.

Right then, Think I have figured out what is causing the issue:

It's the inner CV joint on the passenger (left hand) side.

I didn't find it before because all my troubleshooting and checking was confined to the drivers side but it wasn't untill I did the annual service that I found when I turned the passenger side wheel backwards and forwards in quick succession, there was a few degrees of play in the joint and it sounded like i was ratteling a cup full of marbles.

During the clutch change I couldn't get that driveshaft out so I seperated the cup from the tripod. I expect when I put it back togeter I didn't use the correct grease (the old grease was like a liquid, I reassembed with generic CV Lith moly grease).

MRRover75 wrote:

ransoman wrote:

It was a fully assembled steering Knuckle with bering and hub already pressed in. I believe these are manfactured by Britpart...

Also, I have just seent the price difference. I paid £92 in Feb 2021, the same part is now almost £200!!

You have the answer for the bearings... its sh!tpart... I used a FAG bearing when replacing mine. Had the special GEN2 tool to get them in and out. As mentioned, they sat pretty well in their housing before they started to move!

This is getting silly now. Couldn't find a loose bearing at all so had to buy another compelete hub at £220. the old bearing was so knackered It's amazing it didn't seize. It would only move in notches and it felt like it was filled with sand. Put it all back together and drove off, 10 miles later the strut top mount fails..

The strut top mount that is a brand new genuine LR item Item I fitted in january!! this car. since I got it back on the road in February it hasn't gone a single week without a fault.

) Ahh the good old feeling of need to burn the car down. Im surprised you didn't find bearings seperately, If you wish, I can provide you with part different manufacturer part numbers.

Two other questions:
1) What happened when the top mount went?
2) Have you finally solved the knocking issue? Mine is still present, driving me nuts. Will try to replace CV axles, if that doesn't solve it - flywheel, clutch and bearing kit.

Hi Blaster,

I don't think it was the top mount after all... the symptoms were when turning the steering from left to right I could feel and hear a twang in the steering. placing my hand on the strut, I could feel the twang too.

Well yesterday I went out to the shops rolled through a crater in the local shops carpark (as you do, because land rover) and heard an almighty bang, like someone had just fired a shotgun at the car. Checked it when I got home and the coil spring had snapped. The twanging sensation appears to have gone so looks like that was the spring fracturing ready to brake.

It's a proper slap in the face though because that is the side I replaced the wheel bearing on. Literally everything in that corner other than the spring is brand new and was re-assembled on sunday. I am that I am going to have to dismantle it all again.

As for the knocking. Everything I do makes it get better and I have no idea if i have fixed it or not. I believe replacing the bearing finally stopped it but I did replace the wishbone at the same time and the balljoint was completely shot.