Hi Davyboy
Sorry I missed your post, it didn't appear when I checked for new posts. Very strange, I only found it by going back and checking my posts.
Anyway, thank you for taking the time to check your motor for me. Obviously this must be normal but I just hadn't noticed.
Interesting to hear what you said about the technician and the butterfly valve in the throttle body. My understanding is, it has no effect on the running of the engine. It's usual position is fully open to allow full air flow to the engine, then closes briefly on shutdown to prevent the engine running on. Once engine shutdown is confirmed, the valve springs open again and stays there.
This is why I don't understand the throttle motor buzzing or wining when the ignition is switched on.
It does however appear to stop making a noise once the engine is started.
So if you are busy working on the car with the ignition on, the throttle motor is going to be energised in someway. Surely this would cause damage or early failure of the part. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I think the throttle noise on start, engine not on, is the unit checking and sending a signal to the ecu it's at the correct start position prior to firing up

FWIW my 2014 FL2's throttle whines, after switching off the engine, for a variable amount of time but it can continue whining for over 10 mins. Its done this since I bought it when it was 6 months old. Jules

Thanks Chips, that makes sense.
I didn't think it was faulty, I just couldn't remember hearing it before.
Think I need a new ear trumpet.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi Jules.
I know about the shutdown procedure. If you drop the throttle body down a bit you can watch it.
Engine off, butterfly valve closes briefly then opens again briefly then closes again before finally opening and shutting down.
That's why it makes so much noise on shutdown.

I was concerned about the noise with the ignition on and engine off.
As the valve is already open, as it's spring loaded, just didn't seem correct. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

If you look amongst the fault codes P02Exxx you will find quite a few detailing failures during checking the 'Diesel Intake Air Flow', that is the position of the 'Throttle Valve'.
Also, as I thought it was an 'open or shut' case, I was surprised to see it mentioned as one of the methods of controlling the DPF Regeneration Temperature (page 1531 repair Manual)

Apart from the extensive checking of the Intake Air Valve's position, is there more to the actions of this valve than just stopping the engine? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The throttle plate will normally operate when the EGR is active, so it enhances the EGR function.
The plate has more than a fully open or fully closed state, as the ECM can set it to anywhere in between too.

I've had mine on live data, where it showed that when the EGR valve begins to open, the TB begins to close. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Well there you go. Never too old to learn.
Didn't know any of that.
I'll have to try and have a look at live data, as I Nodge says.
As I have no DTC's it would appear mine is ok. Just hadn't noticed the noise before.
Thanks again for everyone's input.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Mine has started to make a clacking sound after shutdown, which is new. I'll have to put my diag on it again, as I've not done it for a couple of years. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Would it not be easier to loosen it from the manifold and just lower it down enough to see in side. Don't run the engine but if ignition on then ignition off and it will go through the cycle and you can see what is happening with the butterfly valve. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I little bit late, sorry ....
The spring inside is designed to keep the flap open when no power.
The motor is a simple DC motor which works against the spring and if powered directly and continuously will keep the flap closed.
In this light, in order for the motor to be able to keep the flap in various positions, it needs to be driven by a PWM signal.
It's normal to hear that sound, because it's the frequency of that PWM signal driving the motor.

Thanks for jumping in Alex.
That makes a bit more sense. I must admit I thought it was a simple case of open or closed.
As it says down below, learn something new every day  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Just as a reminder - you can buy repair kits for the throttle body gears from ebay .

I bought one for when the gears pack up. Jules

The PWM signal to the motor is the most likely reason the gears wear in a position other than fully closed. When the motor whines from the PWM supply, there would be a small but rapid rattling of the gears, which will wear them.

A repair kit isn't the whole story, as the feedback potentiometer will also be subject to rapid micro oscillations, which will wear the track.

The throttle body isn't that expensive if bought from the correct supplier, so it's best to simply replace it. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

IanMetro wrote:

If you look amongst the fault codes P02Exxx you will find quite a few detailing failures during checking the 'Diesel Intake Air Flow', that is the position of the 'Throttle Valve'.
Also, as I thought it was an 'open or shut' case, I was surprised to see it mentioned as one of the methods of controlling the DPF Regeneration Temperature (page 1531 repair Manual)

Apart from the extensive checking of the Intake Air Valve's position, is there more to the actions of this valve than just stopping the engine?