I started my LR2 2008 on Saturday and I've noticed that it struggled to start/ crank in the morning but eventually it started and ran vehicle idle for 15 minutes just to warm up and brush the snow off the car I turned off my vehicle and decided to go out later. When I tried starting it there was no crank or click and a message appeared on the Dash saying" HDC SYSTEM FAULT UNAVAILABLE. "

I checked the battery at that time and voltage reading was at 11.46v
I went to Canadian Tire today and got 15A Eliminator battery charger, I ran the charger until my battery was 100%.... It was originally at 6%

My battery is less than 2 years old using Motomaster AGM 800CCA

After charging the battery my voltage reading was 12.32 but no luck on starting and no messages on the Dash board.

I also replaced my starter motor 3 years ago (bosch)

My alternator has never been replaced.

Any ideas? Thanks

Could be the steering lock problem but I would try the disconnect the battery trick first.

Yeah, voltage but ALSO amps are relevant. The cold cranking amps are likely not enough any more and any battery that is below 12.60 volts at rest is an old soldier too lazy to fall (so to speak). Costco sells the 850 cca, 1000 ca Energizer for almost the same price as the Canadian Tire brand.
Couple of things are important when buying a battery and the manufacture date is critical. If you still have a warranty on the lazy Motormaster, return it and pickup the most recently H7 model on the shelf.

I would agree.
I also think the battery is kaput - buy another

What does the voltmeter say during cranking attempts ? - I would think it drops to a very low voltage.

BUT also check your earths - engine to chassis and chassis to Neg battery terminal - corrosion can seriously reduce the high amperage needed for cranking when you only have 12v

FWIW I had a problem my series 3 - lights and electrics worked but would not crank fast enough to start. Changed the starter motor but that made no difference - in the end some sandpaper to make the chassis earth contacts bright and shiny solved the problem completely. Jules

Hi

You need to:-

1.Rule Out Human Error
The most common reason for a dead car battery is someone forgetting to turn off their lights. This may be your headlights, boot light, or interior lights, but it will ultimately drain your car battery overnight.

2. Check Battery And Connections
Check your battery, battery terminals, and battery cables for any signs of damage.
For your battery, corrosion and a buildup of debris or grime can interfere with the ability to charge. Make sure you clean the battery regularly with a mild, approved cleaning method.
Your battery case should not be dented, cracked, or bulging. Physical damage can cause the cells inside to malfunction or die completely, interfering with your battery’s ability to hold a charge.
Make sure your cables are firmly connected to your positive terminal and negative terminal. Look for creases or frays along the cords.

3. Test Car Battery
If you have a voltmeter or multimeter, connect it to your battery to check the charge of the battery. A healthy battery should read 12.6 volts at rest and up to 14.6 volts while the engine runs (and it should spike while the engine runs).
Low voltage indicates the battery is not charged completely. If the voltage does not increase while running, you may have a bad alternator or other charging components.
A load test, which can be performed at a mechanic or most battery dealers and auto parts stores, reveals more comprehensive information regarding your battery health.
You connect your fully charged battery to a load tester. This simulates operating pressure your battery should hold up too. You need a new battery if your voltage drops below 12 volts.

Common Reasons For A Car Battery Not Holding A Charge (And Fixes)
If your car battery won’t hold charge and it isn’t one of the issues above, prepare for more in-depth testing.
At this point, the most common reasons a car battery won’t hold a chargeinclude:
* Parasitic draining
* Improper charging times
* Operating conditions
* Issues in your charging system
In this section, we explain how to diagnose and resolve these issues.

1. Parasitic Draw (Or Blown Fuses)
Parasitic draining usually happens when you have an accessory malfunction or a blown fuse. While your battery allows some mild parasite draining for radio memory or your alarm system, more significant draws will drain your battery completely.

2. Only Taking Short Trips
If you only use your car to take short trips to and from the store, you’re probably not allowing the battery charger system enough time to replenish the power lost.
Most people don’t run into this problem, but it can happen if you find yourself only running short errands. If you suspect this is the issue, allow your vehicle to run long enough to charge the battery completely and see if the car battery keeps its charge.
If this is a common occurrence, you may need an external charger tomaintain your battery. You can also plan some longer trips to offset the issue.

3. Temperature
Keep in mind that cold water will discharge your battery faster than hot weather. If you’re experiencing issues in the winter, the temperature may be to blame.
Ultimately, your car should be able to at least start and maintain enough power. This usually happens in conjunction with an aged, defective, or dying battery.

4. Charging System Issues
If your car battery won’t hold a charge while driving, it usually means your charging system is at fault. These parts run in a circuit to provide power to recharge the battery: your alternator belt generates mechanical energy for your alternator to turn into electrical energy that is then regulated before charging the battery.
Check these parts for signs of visual damage (especially your belt, which can become obviously worn over time). You can also use an ammeter or multimeter to diagnose issues with your alternator and decide if you need a replacement.

Conclusion
Any issue with your car battery or charging system requires immediate attention. There is too much risk to your entire electrical system, even with a minor issue, to excuse running the vehicle while the issue persists.
Run through these troubleshooting steps to find the root of the problem, but do not hesitate to hand the project over to a mechanic if needed. Most electrical problems are simple to fix, but failing to do so tends to snowball into a bigger problem.

Hope this is of some help.

Thanks to all for the replies, much appreciated 🙏🏼.

I had mechanic come by the house to take a quick look. He tested the battery and it was in good health. He's saying that it's most likely my starter. I'll find out this week and keep posted.

Thanks again. 🙂

Quite a few similar HDC/Starting problems on this forum have been cured with a new battery.

The FL2 seems to be very (electric) power hungry, and finds it hard to maintain enough power during starts to allow the electronic modules to boot into life correctly.

Batteries seem to start loosing the struggle after 4 years, although many people report that battery is 'testing' OK.

Have you done a Forum Search, and read of results?

Try these

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36730.html?highlight=hdc+fault

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Took my car into buddy's shop today and it turns out my Starter Motor was gone. Replaced it and cars running smooth again. Thanks to all for helping me out 👍🏼

Thanks for posting your full story including the final successful solution. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)