Funny you say that. Went to order them from LR Parts.net . The 3 washer come in about £2.20 but they were looking £7 postage. I sent them an email suggesting they might think of just putting them in an envelope and charging me £1 instead. I await their response tomorrow. 🤔 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

What a ripoff . You can buy 75 assorted copper washers from Halfords less than that.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools/fu...29018.html

And about 200 from Amazon for similar price.

Plumbing suppliers sell them too. Jules

I had a go at this earlier today and it was much quicker and easier than I thought. I think I had read too much into it. I removed the air filter housing and quickly cleaned the filler plug area. I then undid this which was tighter than I expected.
Then underneath I removed the engine guard plate. I undid the inner drain plug and 1 litre of fluid came out. It was black in colour but very runny and had no evidence of any bits in it. I then undid the sump plug which was seriously tight and drained a whole load more. When added to the original litre I had now drained 3.5 litres. I have now put 3.5 litres of the Comma back in. I have moved the gear selector through all the gears leaving it in each position for about 5 seconds. I've only moved it about on the drive at present and it seems OK. Tomorrow I'm going to drive it to Harwoods to buy a set of washers, its only a few miles. My intention is to drain it again after I've driven it. Incidentally I have drained it whilst it was cold and not bothered with 65c temperature yet as I'm going to do it again in the next day or so, once I've got a new set of washers to fit. I'm probably causing myself more grief but has anyone tried adding one of the little sachets of oil additive ?

Yes, for some reason the filler plug is always really tight.
FWIW I have never used any oil or fuel "additive" and have never had a gearbox or engine fail in any way as a result. Jules

Hello defendersv I would not put any oil additives of any sort into the gearbox oil if that is what your referring to? Not knowing what the additive contains it could destroy the make up of the new oil but most importantly the internals of the gearbox,
Surely you wouldn’t want to destroy your pride and joy!

Years ago I had an Audi 100 which was sold cheaply as the owner never used the correct engine oil and eventually the sump became full of gunge, he decided to put an oil flush into the engine oil which eventually destroyed the shell bearings on the crankshaft, beforehand though he did say the engine didn’t rattle as much but then it started to knock, I bought it cheap, overhauled the crank etc and sold it on, the car is still being used on the Isle of Man and I get a Christmas card every year from its owner and a photo of the car, probably now the sump is full of gunge again?

Seriously no to any additives of any kind.

Well I have now changed 3.5 litres of oil twice. I purchased a new set of washers for £3.50 from Harwoods. I also added a small sachet of gearbox additive recommended on other sites called Instant Judder Fix by Lube Guard. Whilst the engine guard was off I also changed the engine oil and and filters. I driven it about 50 miles now and have to say its much improved, changing up its very smooth and down barely noticeable. Previously when slowing to a halt or crawl it would make its final change down with a jerk and a knock.
I will now just swap 3.5 liters every year when I do the regular oil change. I also found that you can get the gearbox oil temperature on the icar fault code reader. If you tell the machine it is a 2013 Evoque, go to the manual Diagnostic, Auto Box and then Test no 183, it gives the gearbox oil temperature.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Just thought I’d paste a quote from another thread on the forum regarding shudder fix. It might do more harm than good in a gearbox that doesn’t have any apparent problems.

Nodge68 wrote:

Shudder fix is only a temporary solution to hide the issue.
It's actually bad for the other clutches and brake bands, causing them to fail much faster than would otherwise be the case.

Shudder fix works by using friction modifiers, which held the shuddering clutch to slip. Unfortunately it causes all clutches in the box to slip too, which causes accelerated wear, with eventual loss of drive.

That's been the whole problem with this operation. There is so much varied information and opposing opinions that making an informed decision has become increasingly difficult. I'm now starting to lean towards draining it out again. I may leave it a few weeks and do just that.

I feel your pain. JLR seem to skimp on fluid changes for most/all of the components they use. When you look at other car manufacturers service intervals you’ll find they recommend much more frequently changes for exactly the same components. The Haldex for example, is sealed for life if you listen to JLR but Audi recommends regular fluid changes for the same component.
I think that they do this to make running costs appear lower. Of course this just pushes the cost on to a replacement part when it fails due to old worn out fluid. To me, proactive maintenance can only make our cars more reliable.

It's all about the service cost during the first 3 years warranty period. Sealed for life just means sealed for while we are responsible for it. Subsequent owners should change fluids regularly it's preventative maintenance, oil is cheaper than metal. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

One thing we can be sure of in this uncertain world is that JLR will never offer a 5 or 7 year warranty as standard; not when they remain steadfastly near the bottom of the reliability charts. Jules

Dropped 3 litres out of mine today and refilled. Less than 30000 miles since I changed it all. It was dark red colour, no smell of burnt oil. Plan to do this every 10000 mile service now which will keep the gearbox oil fresh.
I used the Comma atf recommended earlier in this thread. Also siphoned the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and refilled it, will do this several times as well in order to change all the psf.
That's all of the 10 year service items done, at 8 years old at a fraction of what a dealer or indy would charge. 🙂 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

jules wrote:

Aisin Warner make the FL2 auto gearbox and their spec is JWS 3309 or JWS 3324 for later models.

Dexron specs go back many decades and I have no idea which now fit the AW specs.

Dexron 11, 11E, 111, 111H, or VI - they should be roman numerals

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON

There are many Dexrons, so better check the specs to see which are compatible with Aisin Warner.

You need the JWS ATF3324 (AW-1) Spec

Smith and Allan sell it at a good price

https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smit...fluid-4030