Just to comment that the throttle butterfly really has only 2 positions, fully open and fully closed, and it’s only role is to close off intake air on shutdown to stop running on or an oil fed runaway.
If the throttle butterfly isn’t opening and closing correctly have you checked that the plastic drive gears that operate it are in good condition?

Hi thanks for the reply,

It appears to be opening and closing correctly by hand and by the electricinoic control. The diagnostic however shows it 83.53% no matter what I am doing I am seeing all the pedal sensors fluctuate when being pressed but not the sensor labelled throttle position. It won't move at all.

Does this help?

Last edited by Marcmcg on 2nd Feb 2023 10:46 am. Edited 1 time in total

However the car does rev and operate how I would expect barring lack of power.

The normal fault with the throttle valve is indicated by lots of clicking and a high pitched whine when you turn off the engine, sometimes the engine will not stop and run on lumpily for a few revolutions. This indicates that carbon (that you have already cleaned out) was/is restricting the movement of the valve causing the plastic teeth of the actuator to strip. The clicking and whining is the actuator moving back and forth trying to get the range sensors to report the valve as closed. The running on is an indicator that the valve is open and there is fuel available.
I don’t know that you should be able to move the butterfly by hand as the actuator should be controlling its position.
If the valve is open when the engine is running I’d be looking more at the low rail pressure or even the movement of the variable position vanes on the turbo.

Any Ideas?

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many a road side breakdown in my firm ,with low fuel pressure fault has been diagnosed as fuel pump or sensors,with the true fault being a blocked filter,new or not,the best wrong diagnoses was one i attended which was just very low on fuel pressure due to a clogged in tank filter(jap 4x4)

Anyone have any other ideas I need to check before throwing in the towel?

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From the symptoms and codes, you seem to be suffering a lack of fuel or air input
- the book says

Description
P0087-00 Fuel Rail/System Pressure -Too Low - No sub type information

• NOTE: - Circuit I_A_RALPS -


Possible Cause
Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit short circuit to ground, short circuit to power, open circuit, high resistance

Fuel starvation

Fuel lines leaking

Fuel lines restricted

Blocked air filter


Action
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the fuel rail pressure sensor circuit for short circuit to ground,
short circuit to power, open circuit, high resistance

Check the fuel lines for any signs of leakage, replace as required

Check the fuel lines for any signs of damage, crimping or restrictions, replace as required

Check for blocked air filter, replace as required

PS I would add possible fuel contamination? or symptoms (not codes) could be variable turbo vanes???? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Nice on thanks Ian I'll have another investigation tonight. Is it common for the fuel rail pressure sensor to die? Haven't checked air filter yet. Done fuel filter lines on the top side looked alright. She was just driving and then it had no power half a tank of fuel and then started acting up.

Thank You

Hi Ian,

Checked everything you listed. Couldn't find fault with anything. Could you send me a guide for the turbo vanes and what to check for?

Does anyone know what the fuel rail pressure values are supposed to be? I camt seem to find this data anywhere.

Thank You

A search on here shows this thread

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36883.ht...l+pressure

Fuel pressure on most common rail engines is between 24,000kPa it idle, up to about 140,000kPa at full power.
My 2009MY SE would concur with that, showing 25,000kPa at idle and about 80,000kPa at 2500 RPM (I seldom need to go over 2.5k RPM). Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I am getting around 25kkpa on idle upto 181kkpa when revving before the fault.

Today I changed the sensor as was getting repeated fuel pressure low and fuel pressure high concurrently at the same time.

Changed the sensor and I am only now getting fuel rail pressure high faults.

Anyone have any ideas getting desperate now.

Thank You

Have replaced 2 rail pressure sensors and a fuel pressure regulator and still getting simultaneous fuel pressure signal low and high at the same time when revving over 3krpm and vehicle misfiring

Any thoughts?