In another thread, I Like Chips commented that replacing the torque converter had cured his 1800 rpm vibration which seems to plague many automatic FL2s.

I did ask a local auto gearbox garage whether he thought the problem might be the torque converter but he said no. However, he didn’t elaborate on why he thought that and I didn’t pursue it. He has subsequently closed the business!

So what does the team think? Might it be the torque converter and is there any way of testing/checking it other than by replacing it? And if one went for a replacement, what sort of cost are we talking about?

As you can see lots of my posts are on this subject and I’ve been on a quest for literally years to try and get to the root cause once and for all but never have done .I spent a small fortune on replacing many parts but I now do think the torque converter is the cause and have read recently someone on a 2008 did change the converter (and gearbox) and now has a silky smooth drive . Now early freelanders and their secondhand parts are becoming a lot cheaper I am thinking about replacing the T/C to see if it sorts it .

Here's one of the larger original threads.

It seems to have millions of theories and nearly as many suggested cures.

Happy reading ----

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31479.html?highlight=1800 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks, Tigertim, I think I recall you saying as much in a previous thread. Trouble is, how would we know if a s/hand box and torque converter were any better than what we have now? I fear the only solution might be to go to an auto box specialist of good renown and get a new torque converter but keep the box. (I assume there’s no need to replace both?) but I’d have to say it does seem to be the most likely culprit. I wonder is there any connection between the vibration and the fact that the natural change point of the auto box results in the next gear up dropping the revs to 1800 which, of course, is the point of maximum torque. It all seems too much of a coincidence not to be torque converter related.

I was lucky in the end with my devil child gearbox problem, I was quoted by a gearbox specialist if memory serves around a grand just for a gearbox check " we plug it into a machine sir ", " It could cost you lot of money to have fixed"

Asking around the name Driver Transmissions in Brum was mentioned by three people. So I contacted them

"Yes sir, bring the car over to us early tomorrow and we will test it"

"how much do you charge" I asked

" The test is free " was the reply.

One of the guys drove the car I sat in with him.

Torque Converter with a possible sticky solenoid was the diagnosis.

I also discovered that Driver Transmissions do a lot of subby work for gearbox specialists

The cost to have it fixed was just over two grand two years ago. The car was left with them in the morning and I took it back that afternoon.

I also discovered that Driver Transmissions do a lot of subby work for garages and gearbox specialists.


I would have thought that a good gearbox specialist would easily be able to at least tell you how to resolve you problem. After all this box is not unusual it's in a few different makes.

Many thanks, if a little concerning that the 'fix', whether it works or not, would cost half the value of the car!

With one thing and another I have spent a small fortune keeping it on the road. Is it worth having done. I can do some stuff myself but not everything.

If I couldn't do the DIY I would have to get rid of the car.

I have a cunning plan with preventative maintenance but the cost of sourcing the bit's and pieces for that is increasing as are the running costs.

We need a car of some sort or other. I justify keeping the Freeloader by telling myself it's better the devil you know, than the one you don't.

Better the devil you know, I have had cars like that. Spent so much reluctant to sell it and let someone else benefit from it. Bloke I worked with said he would rather burn his car then sell it after spending so much , in case he saw someone else driving around in it not having problems.

Have you changed the transmission fluid? If not, that should be your first step. Mine was vibrating terribly at 1700 rpm, particularly when towing and was starting to get very unpleasant to drive. Dump and fill fluid change seems to have cured it completely.

It’s had three dump and fills in the last, say, 20,000 miles. I’d have to say they didn’t make any discernible difference.

A torque converter change on my Evoque was 1K a few years ago using a repaired torque converter with a year’s warranty. Problem was totally different to the vibes on the Freelander.

My Freelander 07 has had the slight vibration at 1800rpm since I’ve owned it, three years and about 30k miles. Last owner had the car from new so I wonder if the vibration developed and they got rid???
Doesn’t seem to be getting any worse and it’s only a little annoyance.

Simon J wrote:

It’s had three dump and fills in the last, say, 20,000 miles. I’d have to say they didn’t make any discernible difference.

Has anyone used Dr Tranny and had a fix.


I tried it in my Auto box to cure the shuddering , it didn't help at all, wasted money.

Dr Tranny shudder fox is a friction modifier, and as such should only be used to keep a malfunctioning box usable until it's rebuilt.
Unfortunately it trashed the box clutchs, which isn't helpful if the TC is the only part that needs replacing. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Just had my auto FL2 for a year, now on 127K miles, it has just started having an issue that sounds just like this. However I get it randomly, and always seems to be in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear 99% of the time.

I get it roughly in the same rev band as others have described. It's smooth from tickover until around 1800 rpm, when it's starts to shudder, and them past 2000 rpm it's smooth again.

Is everyone in the agreement that it's the torque converter? Is it going to get worse over time, and is it OK to drive like this?

Cheers.

Last edited by liamthedude on 16th Apr 2023 7:33 pm. Edited 1 time in total