Hi !
I recently had problems on my 2011 Freelander 2, which had noises in low speed when turning, and no more power on the rear wheels.
So I replaced the Haldex and the rear differential. I no longer have any noise, unfortunately I still have no power on the rear wheels. It seems that this come from the Power Transfer Unit.
the 4 wheels in the air, the Propshaft don't turn and there is a noise on the front.
I have an auto gearbox, and I have seen on another post that I will need a sleeve with part number LR002746.
Do I need anything else ? New seals ?
I didn't find any videos or photos of the operation. Will i need to refill the gearbox ? Will the oil come out during disassemby?

Thank you.

Seems that you have located the fault, its not uncommon. I think asking Austen at Bell Engineering for advice will be the best place to start. He also have upgraded PTU`s available: http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-2-products/ I am not sure, but I think you need tho drain the gearbox before removing the PTU as the RH driveshaft goes right through the PTU and seals in the gearbox. If the sleeve is worn, the splines in the PTU and maybe gearbox may also be worn. You wont see before you take this apart. Again, ask Bell for advice.




Seems like the seal ring on the outside of the sleeve is missing on this drawing. Here is a picture of my sleeve when open during a clutch change. I think weeping seals has lubricated my splines over the years and kept them from wearing out:

First the good news - you don't need to drain the auto box when you remove the RH drive shaft, a little will come out, maybe a mug full.
Now the better news, the splines between the PTU and auto box fret and die, the splines in the PTU come with the refurbished box from Bell Engineering, the splines in the gearbox are very easily replaced as it is just a collar that is simply and easily pulled out. Replace the collar AND the seal. top up gearbox and away you go Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

OK, thank you for the replys.

I'll take the PTU from bell Engineering. I bought the Haldex and the rear diff from them.

I changed the haldex et rear diff myself, because there is a lot of videos and topics concerning the operation.
But i think i will ask a mechanic to change the PTU, to be sure of doing it well.

Andy131, when you said "the splines in the gearbox are very easily replaced as it is just a collar that is simply and easily pulled out", do you speak of the sleeve LR002746 ? and do you know the part number of the seal ?

And there is a risk that i need to change the RH driveshaft?

take a look at the following thread - lots of pictures

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic26133.html


the seal was LR002906, the sleeve was LR002746
Don't forget to buy a litre of oil to top up the gearbox, and the correct oil for the PTU unit as it will come dry. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

OK, I will check this.

Thank You !

Andy131 wrote:

First the good news - you don't need to drain the auto box when you remove the RH drive shaft, a little will come out, maybe a mug full.
Now the better news, the splines between the PTU and auto box fret and die, the splines in the PTU come with the refurbished box from Bell Engineering, the splines in the gearbox are very easily replaced as it is just a collar that is simply and easily pulled out. Replace the collar AND the seal. top up gearbox and away you go

Doesn't really matter if it's the crown wheel or the splines, they both require the PTU to be replaced.

If the crown wheel / pinion dies the PTU will be full of metal shavings - so stick a magnet through the fill point, for that matter stick a straw, there will be a lot of metal and it should show up.
If the splined coupling fails, it takes out the splines on the input shaft of the PTU and this isn't available separately, even if it was, setting up the PTU takes time and experience which few people have.

Don't even think about just changing the sleeve unless you are going to get rid of the car in a few hundred miles, mine were completely and utterly shot on both the coupling and PTU, on strip down I found that the RH drive shaft splines were also worn and chanced just changing the driveshaft, leaving the gearbox alone - was still OK 35,000 miles later Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Thanks Andy! Glad to hear just replacing the RH driveshaft seems to do the trick. I guess they haven't added similar sleeves for the halfshafts... Would be shame to have to replace the entire transmission just because of worn out output couplings.

As far as replacing the PTU, how involved is it? I assume the RH halfshaft has to be removed? About to start planning this exercise myself, since no shop around here will be willing to let me leave the car while this is taking place. I've read great feedback for Bell Engineering, hopefully I can source a resplined PTU from there.

Cheers!

It's a relatively strait forward spanner job. Support the vehicle, remove engine shield(?), remove RH drive shaft (has a support bearing & carrier mid length), disconnect prop shaft, remove PTU, pull sleeve from gearbox. At this point I would replace the gearbox oil seal as the cost is buttons compared to the amount of effort if it does weep. Assembly is as above but in reverse.

Bearing in mind I did mine in the street (no garage and caravan on the driveway), stripped it down, decided what parts were needed and rebuilt it all on a Saturday. Did it all again a couple of weeks later when the new parts arrived. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Will give it a shot, thanks for the instructions!

Anyway planning to do the timing/ancillary belts, so I might as well do as much as I can in one shot.

Cheers!

Reviving this old thread!

I've been having nasty noises and sensations from my auto Freelander 2 for some months. In the end, I have narrowed the source of the noise down to the rear diff - which I swapped out for a unit from wearediffs this weekend and all my horrible noises have gone.

That said, whilst I was diagnosing the source of the noise, I noticed that the splines on my PTU are , found this out by lifting all 4 wheels off the ground and putting it in drive. The front wheels turn, but the rear wheels stayed still - and a horrible clicking noise from the PTU like a very loud sewing machine.

When I drive it, there is no noise - presumably because the front and rear wheels are all turning and everything is in rough synchronism. In fact it drives like a different car, rear diff must have been trashed, its lovely to drive now.

I'm tempted not to replace the PTU for the time being, mainly because of the cost. Am I in danger of causing damage to anything else, or am I just likely to further damage the PTU splines? I think I have some mental trauma from swapping out the rear diff, so keen not to get back under the car for a while!

PTU has three common failure modes -
1) splines fail and you get no / little drive to the propshaft - carry on without 4 wheel drive OK
2) bearings fail, you get a lot of noise and it will eventually destroy the PTU.
3) crown wheel and/or pinion fails lot of noise and PTU is already trashed and is unlikely to be fit to be used to trade in for a recon unit.

So if you know that it's the splines - carry on regardless, as the damage is already done. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Just a quick note.

I recently experienced a PTU failure and took MRRover75's comments onboard along with a local LR specialist and called Bell Engineering. After a telephone diagnosis, I booked the car in and popped up there yesterday. I just thought I would provide some feedback.

The guys seem to specialise in PTU and Haldex issues, and were first rate. I dropped off the car at 9am, they provided a loan car so I could pop into nearby Bewdley. By 2:30pm the car had the PTU replaced and the Haldex tested and then serviced. After a 200mile trip back home (in silence) I can report everything is fixed (until the next thing goes wrong).

I wouldn't hesitate to use them again, they certainly know what they are talking about and Austen's diagnosis over the phone was spot on.

Seems some people can make a living thanks to LR's short comings...but I guess that's not news to the people on this forum.

Andy131 wrote:

It's a relatively strait forward spanner job. Support the vehicle, remove engine shield(?), remove RH drive shaft (has a support bearing & carrier mid length), disconnect prop shaft, remove PTU, pull sleeve from gearbox. At this point I would replace the gearbox oil seal as the cost is buttons compared to the amount of effort if it does weep. Assembly is as above but in reverse.

Bearing in mind I did mine in the street (no garage and caravan on the driveway), stripped it down, decided what parts were needed and rebuilt it all on a Saturday. Did it all again a couple of weeks later when the new parts arrived.