Hi all have to replace my drivers side drive shaft fl2 2.2TD
According to book you have to lower subframe is this correct or can I get away with it without dropping
Sub fram all info appreciated thanks

There are two driver's side drive shafts- front and rear - which do you mean? Jules

What "book" do you have ? If Haynes burn it.

Ive had a quick look through the free JLR workshop manual and can find nothing about dropping subframes.
page 367 onwards (out of 3229) Jules

Thanks for reply it was just Haynes manual said needed to lower suspension frame

Sorry it’s front drivers side driveshaft

Wayne1968 wrote:

Thanks for reply it was just Haynes manual said needed to lower suspension frame

And its awful paper for that matter.  Jules

Thanks for all info much appreciated now I can get on with job by myself instead of waiting for the extra pair of hands that
Keep promising to help out cheers everyone 👍

Good Luck, some nice pictures of job and a quick description would be nice addition to forum, once you have successfully completed job. Thanks FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Will do no problem just waiting for a bit of better weather lol

Brass monkey weather here this morning - not great for working on cars Jules

My Freelander is off the road at the moment, right when I could have done with 4WD. Unfortunately I had to start replacing the EGR cooler this weekend, only to get hail stoned back inside after 2 hours.
Hopefully it'll be warmer and dryer next weekend. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I'm doing the same at the moment. Drivers side front drive shaft decided to shake it's bearing and loosen the casting and bracket holding it to the engine. That's the last time I ignore a slight tinny noise from under the front end. Anyway decided to undo lower ball joint, steering joint, replacing shock whilst I'm there. Pretty straightforward so far. So no you can get to it quite easy. Also no circlip on drivers side as it's clamped in casting. So will not go in and out from gearbox. Hope this helps.

Is it literally as simple as unbolt hub, use a pry bar or slide hammer to pull out and tap replacement in?

Doing a front pair

When you have the drive shaft out of the hub if a gentle tug does not release the shaft don't pull on the hub end you could pull the inboard cv joint out of its housing ( it's not a major problem but can be a tad difficult to get back in to say the least)

You can use a slide hammer with the correct attachment to pull on the inner cv housing or else gingerly prise it out with something like a large screwdriver or crowbar.

When you put the new shaft back be sure to grease the clip and have it's open part at 12 O'clock