OK. I bought a 2013 luxury a while ago with an air bag light on. Mot is now due si I thought I would take a look at it.
I use an Autel OBD scanner that has landrover specific diag so I can see most things.
It is reporting four faults. B1126-13, B1127-13, B1128-13 and B1129-13. I believe these are all seat mounted airbags but please correct me if I am wrong.
I have removed the drivers seat and refitted it, including disconnecting the plug. Same faults reported.
I have pulled the plugs on what I believe is the srs ecu, mounted under centre console. And this has made no difference either.
If I look at the live data it shows these for circuits have a resistance of 10.5 ohms. All the others are around 2.5 ohms.
It seems a little strange. To have the same resistance on all the faulty ones. I have not seen a circuit diagram but assume they are all on completely separate circuits.
Any one able to shed some light?

Are you sure that the Airbags are not just all disconnected?

B1126-13 Drivers Side-Side Airbag
Deployment Control - Circuit
open
Driver's side air bag
circuit open circuit
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams
and check driver's side air bag circuit for
open circuit[/i] FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The I have not checked if they are connected. I assumed the live data reading of 10.5 ohms was telling me that. I will take a look tomorrow. But I have another woe now. Where I have had the centre console out and disconnected everything I am getting a switch fail warming for the handbrake switch now.
Deep joy.

Link to Forum Site Wiring diagrams

SRS (airbags) are on pages 91 and 92

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...TS_LHD.pdf

My repair manual can be down loaded via this link

Scroll down to about page 23 and you will see several pages of SRS info, including the dangers of using multimeter to test SRS system.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf

On the Forum site, go to 'home' and you will see a list of topics.
Choosing General, Technical, etc. will show you many 'sticky' threads that contain handbooks, manuals, diagrams and other useful, info.

The site has a wealth of experience in the replies of members past and present, all availabe via the 'Search' button on the upper blue bar.

So please remember to close off your thread(s) by adding to that info with what you found, and what resolved the problem.
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Gissit wrote:

The I have not checked if they are connected. I assumed the live data reading of 10.5 ohms was telling me that. I will take a look tomorrow. But I have another woe now. Where I have had the centre console out and disconnected everything I am getting a switch fail warming for the handbrake switch now.
Deep joy.

I totally agree with Jules.

When embarking on any repair or service of your car, please remember your and others lives depend on your car working correctly.

Think - Do I have skills, knowledge and tools to do this job properly.

To me the FL2 (and cars generally) have become in need of specialist maintenance and equipment. Some DIY (and garage?) mechanics/technicians do, but many don't.

I now have my cars professionally maintained - it may prove to be worth it, one day, while travelling at 70mph on the motorway - and, for example, an airbag decides to not deploy. (or indeed decides to deploy, for no good reason. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Me too modern vehicles are so complex I have always done my own repairs and servicing but now other than oil changes and checking fluids theres not much you can do without all the technological kit, now retired and not using my FL2 much more thinking of getting a MBG nothing I cannot do if that went wrong! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Ive just finished restoring a Series 3 diesel inc engine out and bulkhead rebuild. It only had 5 fuses and although the electrics were a complete mess I was able to sort it all out using my knowledge of basic DC current theory and a cheap multimeter.

Unfortunately for me to sort modern car electrics would require considerable investment in scanning devices/software and a course in practical understanding of how the canbus etc etc works.

This all came to light when i was trying to sort my trailer lighting - I connected the trailer to the car and was trying to find the bad earth but was getting very confused as circuits were intermittently working. I eventually realised the FL2 was shutting the trailer circuits down when I accidently shorted the bulb connections with a screw driver.  Jules

Rommel
I will search my garage, I think that I the technical equipment (piece of plastic tube) needed to set up the SU carbs on your MGB. I would offer to help but my hearing isn't what it was, and my glasses fall off when i tilt my head when looking in bonnet.

Likewise Jules I could offer to help, but some of my training on how to start the large Diesel Generators, in extreme emergency, may result in the fire damaging the wiring, or indeed the car.

For those with long memories, my original training included the theory, maintenance and repair of the (postwar prewar?) Ford 93A Side Valve Petrol Engine. The perfectly flat head could be, and often was, removed in a few minutes, to allow the regular de-coking.

It came in handy as my first car was a Ford 100E, and knowing the mechanicals helped, and the electrical system was protected by 1 -ONE- fuse.

PS Sorry Gissit, its part of forum dangers, us old boys remembering the Good? Old Days, when cars needed a lot more work. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Maybe we should create an "Old Gits" section for the over 65s ? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

IanMetro
I think the link you sent me is the working for the wrong year. I don't seem to havevthe right cable colours and that diagram is from 2008 and mine is s 2013.

I've sorted the handbrake and cigarette lighter. Just a bad connection on the centre console rear plug.

Can I join the old gits club as a younger member? I am mid fifties but have been working on cars from 12 years old. Back then my dad ran old bangers and it's how I learnt. Austin Cambridge was a proper motor that you could fix with just spanners and hammers. I bought a 1967 MG a few years back to restore and it was so simple to work on.

I am pretty handy with most things. Modern cars are not that complicated but they are a nightmare to get to anything. I work with quite clever industrial computers for controlling robots etc so electrics do not scare me. The manufacturers just make it so much harder than it needs to be though. They don't build them to be easy to maintain just to be quick to build. I've spent a lot of time in car factories on automation systems and it is all time driven.

Ok, after a busy Saturday I am getting somewhere.
I found a 2013 circuit diagram and that allowed me to start looking a bit deeper (150+ page pdf file)
It turns out that I had some actual airbag faults and it was nothing to do with the wiring. I fitted some bypass resistors and now the faults are all cleared.
I know the car was in an accident previously.
But... Having cleared all the faults it raised a new one. B1193-68 - Crash event storage - Full and locked. If i reset this it clears until the next engine start and then returns. It seems that this can not be reset by conventional means. I believe the JLR method is to replace the control module but there are people out there that can reset it. I could do it at home but it is a lot of hassle and it is only £50 to just send it away.
I think I have gotten to know the car much better after this. The circuit diagrams certainly taught me a bit. Did you know we have an electric heater to warm the cabin before the engine gets to temperature?

"Did you know we have an electric heater to warm the cabin before the engine gets to temperature?"

oh yes - nice isnt it. IIRC its only on the diesels Jules

If you drive with disabled airbags I would think that your insurance would be invalidated, and your your passengers put at greater risk.
Although I believe that there is no law against driving without airbags as older vehicles were never fitted with them.

Your Insurance company expect your vehicle to be equipped as 'standard' unless informed otherwise. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 25th Jan 2023 1:45 pm. Edited 1 time in total

That’s a very good point