Ok, so I have a 2013 SD4, It's just started to stutter on start up, not all the time but quite often. Sometimes it will do it a few minutes down the road and other times straight way. It's only cut out once and the stutter only last a few seconds. It's like it's being starved of fuel for a short period of time.
Any ideas or similar problems ????

Sounds like fuel filter. Do you know when it was changed?

Good advice about fuel starvation so could be worth a new filter first, but reports of EGR valves failing around 40 to 50K on MY13 including my own. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks guys. Just ordered a filter from Euro's 50% off. I'll try that first.

Sorry for the old thread revival.
I went out last night, not far just a 16 mile round trip.
The first part of the journey involves 2 miles of open limit B road, then 2 miles of 70 MPH duel carriageway.
Just after pulling off the dual carriageway, there's a mile or so of 30 then some traffic lights which is where I was turning right but stopped as they were red.
A few seconds after I made the right turn, the engine spluttered which its not done before, but it cleared a second or so later.

When I reached my destination and stopped the engine idle speed suddenly dropped and went lumpy for a few seconds, then returned to normal.

On the return journey, I got stuck at some roadwork traffic lights. While waiting for them to change, the engine idle speed dropped and went lumpy for a second time, again only for a few seconds before returned to normal.

The fuel gauge is bang on ¼ of a tank, with the range showing 100 miles.

What do you reckon, could this be down to the transfer pump in the tank misbehaving?
I'm hoping it's something EGR related, as I could do without pulling the tank over the winter.

Your thoughts please. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

As above, how old is the fuel filter.
Cheapest and easiest thing to try first. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I hope that it is just disturbed rubbish fuel in the bottom of tank and it will clear, or if caught in filter, then try a new one.
That is of course that there are no clues from error codes logged. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Think you should be only fitting genuine fuel filters not the cheapest available . seems that some cars have problems with non genuine filters 2010 Aintree Green Freelander TD4 HSE.
2004 Land Rover Discovery 2 Landmark TD5
1998 Ford Escort Cabriolet

The filter is 13 months old, and has covered less than 7k miles in that time, and yes it's an OE Purflux filter. I only use OE parts, nothing cheap or Chinese.
I'm suspecting the transfer pump, as the engine spluttered again tonight while the vehicle was at an angle.
I've since bought the gauge to ½ and it seems to be back to normal, at least it was after adding more fuel. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I was going to suggest that filling it up would help to eliminate (or not) the transfer pump - but you seem to have done that already Jules

It seemed that the spluttering only occurred after the fuel got to ¼, and only after some movement of the vehicle that could cause fuel to slosh away from the pickup in the tank.

Now I've bought the level up a bit, I'll monitor the issue for a repeat of the symptoms.

I've still got to solve the coolant loss and pressurisation problem too, but so far the tests I've done have been inconclusive. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Norge, to help stop fuel problems I never go below half a tank.
I know to fill up the FL is a lot of money but after that it is just a half tank to fill up.
Used to do this on my D2 with a bigger tank.
Goes back to when I had to instruct operators to fill up every night to help prevent condensation in steel fuel tanks.
Just my personal thing. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

There was a problem with the temperature sensor in the tank wiring loom (inside the tank). I had this fault, and found that on the wiring loom there are three temperature sensors on the same circuit. One in the tank, one on the fuel filter, and one on the sump level sensor in the sump. A quarter of a tank of fuel is a problem on most Landrover models for some reason. In summer my Discovery 2 over heats the in-tank pump on a quartet, the FL2 gets hard to start on a quarter, mainly as there is no lift pump on them. If the filter non-return valve doesn't hold, it stops sucking up to the high pressure pump. Some cheap filters are a pig to bleed for this reason.

Nodge68 wrote:

It seemed that the spluttering only occurred after the fuel got to ¼, and only after some movement of the vehicle that could cause fuel to slosh away from the pickup in the tank.

Now I've bought the level up a bit, I'll monitor the issue for a repeat of the symptoms.

I've still got to solve the coolant loss and pressurisation problem too, but so far the tests I've done have been inconclusive.