just to confirm you didn't hot soak the engine with key docked did you? (Stop the engine but don't remove the key and then start the engine again)

My LR2 will have problems if I HOT SOAK it with the key docked.


Assuming that you didn't do that.


Check the motor mounts to see if the engine is moving too much and possibly causing a problem.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32979.html


It is also possible that an oil leak has contaminated the crank sensor or the transmission control module.


Good luck

Paul

Yes this was probably hot soak. Strange thing was also that the key wont go out. The light in the key hole was off. After second starting try engine rpms were little bit swinging. Then after the engine died, the key could be removed and the third try was ok and I managed to park.

I checked also fuel rail pressure. After day of standing still there was still 124kpa, when i pressed brake it had 214kpa and when started 414kpa. So this seems also OK.

CKP sensor was replaced for new.

I guess this could be some electric issue, maybe dying alternator. I have to try to go with diagnostic to some trip and graph the battery voltage and fuel rail pressure, just to avoid further changes of perfectly working sensors.

I came across this interesting video about timing measurement. This could help with ruling out VVT issue and timimg chain issues &t=0s Fun thing as he says that if they invoiced 1h diagnostic and go according to manual that will be 2.3h of work to mount different things on the engine to check timing chain physically..

Its kind of pain to diagnose this problem, but i need the car and for the price i couldnt get any better . This should be something really stupid.

If you are having problems with the dock for the key then you should fix that first.

If you use a screw driver to gently touch the back wall you will hear the mechanism pull in and then push out again because its a screw drive not a key.

I lubricate my mechanism with a little silicone spray and a screw driver to allow the mechanism to shuttle in and out

Click image to enlarge

Thanks, I will definitely try the silicone spray.

Today I changed both cam sensors as they finally arrived from the UK. Used Lucas SEB1786.
No codes poped up, but I noticed different thing that could have been the root cause of 0365 and 0340 codes, or at least it did not help it .
The brake vacuum pump is leaking quite a lot. So there could be less oil for timing chain due to this loss.
I checked oil level and before short trip it was in the half. Now it is a little bit under the minimum level. How much this could be? 0,5 liter?
When I run fingers under the vacuum pump I have them covered with oil.
Checked the forum and found volvo replacement o-rings that I am going to order.

Other thing I noticed was the electrical ground points under the fuse box. They seem to be quite rusty. Maybe I shoud also take care of them, since this is the point where ECM is fed from, precisely point G1D120A.

I have two 3.2's (actually I sold one to my Niece recently)

Take a look at this thread for what I did to my S80 3.2 that I purchased used 4 years ago

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87687



As for the ground

Quote:

Other thing I noticed was the electrical ground points under the fuse box. They seem to be quite rusty. Maybe I should also take care of them, since this is the point where ECM is fed from, precisely point G1D120A.

This time i topped up the oil. 0.3 litres less, no other place leaking than vacuum pump.
Seal kit is on the way.
Took a picture of ground points. I will post better as I get to do vacuum pump seals.

Seal kit arrived today! The smaller o ring was firm and had conical shape. Its no wonder that it leaked.

The secon do ring seemed ok.

I managed to take better photo of ground points. I wanted to clean them and found that they had grease on them. At least some protection against rust so I let it be.

Click image to enlarge

Today I went to test the car for a larger trip and visited land rover shop for diagnostics.
They read the codes and new code P0012 was found. They said that it is variable valve timing gear that needs to be changed.
The price in a shop would be around 4000usd. Similar price for entire exhaust change.
Otherwise the car runs ok to me.
I am testing now Militec-1 oil additive and hope that the error will go away.

With the new Pierburg 7.06117.18.0 installed the Intake Variable Valve Timing should be working.

However what is a P0012?
Check engine light code P0012 means Intake Camshaft Position Timing- Over-Retarded (Bank 1)


a few possibilities

- Pierburg sold you a defective part (Not likely)

- The Solenoid isn't switching because of a faulty ground (Check the wiring diagram to see where the ground is located)

- The sensor for the intake cam, exhaust cam and crankshaft aren't working and the ecu is setting the code


I suspect the last choice, the crankshaft sensor is under the Brake Vacuum Pump that you fixed.

In fact it is below the hose in this picture

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks, I already changed CKP(crankshaft position sensor, sometimes the two types mix up).
And the P0016 and other errors are gone, but mainly with the change to CPS sensors.

This P0012 code is completely new.
Maybe due to the fact that the car would not utilize vvt if there was problem with sensors?

The interesting thing is that the engine check light is off.
If I had not checked that, I would never know about the code.

Vvt solenoid had one difference, pierburg has straight hole and filter inside it.
Original has larger carving with removable filter screen.
Altough original continues with the same hole diameter after the screen.
The second difference is that original has cut on the bottom wherr pierburg has full shape.
Maybe these differences can alter its funcion?

Photo of original.

Click image to enlarge

Searched today for exhaust parts and noticed that some parts changed over the time.
Found this useful link for part number search :
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/p...and-rover/

There was small 2mm difference that made new solenoid useless in my engine.
Even though pierburg and so gates have both LR part numbers, its not the same part.
It works for newer engine builds.



Thank you for all the hints, you are the best.

That's very unfortunate.

Let me know if the Gates part works


Also you should check the ground connection to the cylinder head, these two ground point are also used by the ECU.

If you have a significant voltage between the crimp and Battery (-) then you need to investigate why.

Alternatively if you have about 0.050 Volts like I did then I wouldn't worry about the ground side.


Note: engine must be running to test the Voltage drop.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98362


Good luck

Paul

Thanks I already checked grounds with a similar approach.
Just checked for significant voltage difference one lead at battery plus and
the other on tested places.

I did not write that the old vvt solenoid was working.
The car runs now OK.