Hi Stistus, this was what I used:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/200a-midi-inline...r/p/SZ2079

You can also get them from eBay. Search 'mega fuse' , that's where I got mine from, after a reply from Luke. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Luke G wrote:

I forgot to add,Volvo used to use exactly the same inline fuse as the Freelander 2 on the cable from the positive terminal to the alternator/starter and customers had the same problems with slow cranking and problems starting in winter.

stistus FL2 2009 wrote:

Yes it seems so. But as i mentioned earlier there is no way to some diagnosis in this ruthless winter here🥶. So i guess quick fix would be adding a switch on the pole. But i read somewhere that a faulty door switch can make a leak

jules wrote:

What puzzles me is that if the starter is drawing more current than what the fuse is rated why doesn't the fuse blow.

Ok, so back to square one, i did get to mount a pole switch on the negative pole yesterday, turned that to off, charged the battery full, and today(-17°, ), battery was fully charged with the ctec charger, it was completely full, turned the battey switch on, had a external heater in the engine room(2000w for an good hour or so, because this has always did the trick previous winters.
But no same problem, for me it seems to be ok with the starter motor, since it tries to start( from what ive read about common faults in starters, it usually only gives some thicking sounds?), How can i get this piece of trash to start?🥶

...
And yes, after trying to crank for god 30 seconds or so, the battery flats out, so something i draining it hard when it wont start, also get the common fault messages, hdc fault, washers start to move, interior light turns on, and then at last tictictic, dead...

Have you managed to check the actual cranking speed of the starter motor.
A lazy worn out starter motor will crank but if not fast enough the engine will not start. Needs to be a minimum of 250rpm for the injectors to open. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Gasman. No, i havent, maby i can use my obd scanner for this? But can that be affected by cold weather?

stistus FL2 2009 wrote:

Gasman. No, i havent, maby i can use my obd scanner for this? But can that be affected by cold weather?

As Nodge said.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Thanks for the clear reply 😃.
I came across some solenoid refurbish kit for the starter motor, is that maby the part to go for, or scarp the whole part and get a new starter?

Have you tried jump starting it from another car that is running . If the your starter is still slow then its kaput. Jules

Havent been able to, rest of my close by family and friends all got those "green new cars. But a start booster maby should do the trick?

Hi all,

Not wishing to hijack the thread, but i'm sort of having the same issues but i don't want to start another thread and clog up the board...

Mines cranking over no problem at all - really good strong cranking but this morning i ended up flattening the battery due to it refusing to fire.

-9 on the temp gauge this AM but the glow plug light only came on for about 3/4 seconds, clearly not long enough. With a keyed ignition you can cycle glow plugs 4 or 5 times before cranking but with this car I can't.

I'm thinking I have a glow plug issue. I have heard tell of a cold start `trick` but when i read and watch I can't really find a `trick` at all.

Can anyone suggest a fix please?

Cheers

Bob