So after copious amounts of work and money spent on the Freelander, it's now complaining about something else. This isn't a thread on how to fix the problem, more a gameshow to see who can guess it correctly and who gets the top 100 points. The car will hopefully go into the garage before Christmas to have this, and a few other problems sorted with the car.

So without further ado, guesses please as to what this sound could be and I'll update the thread once I know what the issue is.

https://youtu.be/Voo2DCR2dcE

I'm pretty sure the sound is coming from the front of the car, either the drivers side or towards the centre.

Guesses please.

Loose wheel nuts. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Checked and tight.

something to do with brakes, a loose backplate or something . . . . . .just get rid of the car , I did, I spent more on FL2 than any other car I have had, its a great feeling to now have driven 6 months without some stupid niggle or problem  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

After a new Haldex, rear diff, clutch, flywheel, seals, lift kit and other bits, I well too far in to give up now. Plus it's an expensive hobby for me and my partner.

Another little video to help in this game of "what's that noise it's making now".

https://youtu.be/Kwwy4o8hUTc

Top nut on Shock not tightened to spec

It's a lot louder than mine is. There's far too much noise going on even if the clicking is ignored.
What else has been replaced in the drive line? Was the PTU replaced too?
If the lower torque bar bush is compromised, the will allow the engine to move more than intended, which can cause items to touch where they shouldn't. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I've just noticed it's lifted, so it's possible you've got an unhappy CV joint. In my experience, once a CV has covered many miles, they don't like having to wear into a new running position, often resulting in rapid failure. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Top shock nut is an interesting guess. The lower torque bar bush is also another good guess. The PTU is about the only major thing in the driveline that hasn't been replaced. For what it's worth, my guess is also a CV Joint or PTU. I'm hoping before Christmas it's the former and not the latter of my 2 guesses.

From your original video, the 'clicking sounds regular and rhythmic. This suggests to me that it is something in or connected to the engine or transmission, and not suspension.
Nodge is probably right about extra stress on CV joints as they are now out of position/alignment compared with original designed positions. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Just a thought - something Ive not tried but seems logical -
Failing CV joint usually make more sound when turning on full lock. Try turning R on full lock and note the clicking sound then on full lock turning L but at the same speed. If the clicking is faster when turning one way then it points to a CV joint on the outer curve as it will be turning faster.
From my experience engine mounts tend to make more noise during sudden speed changes and more of a bang/thud than a click. Jules

There are a couple of screws holding up the body panel, on either side, at the front of the car, either side of the lowest radiator grill. Knocked one of these screws loose in central Australia & the body panel made a bit of a regular irritating noise, but had all the tools to fix it. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Inner CV joint, or Front Bevel Box spline coupling. That was what clicked on our grey FL2, I note your rear bush on the offside lower wishbone is badly worn, that will knock. Replace in pairs, ie each side together and get the tracking done. (Replace with OE ones, the rear bush has a special function to steer the car on braking)

Unfortunately on this occasion no one managed to bag the 100 points for guessing it right. Although I'm sure there will be a next time where there will be another noise where 200 points may be on offer. It turned out to be the O/S/F wheel bearing starting to fail.

Although when that noise had been fixed, another noise was noticed and the alternator freewheeling pulley and aux belt tensioner was also replaced. While it was there it also had a new engine mount, lower steady mount, upper steady mount, gearbox mount, trailing arms left and right and rear knuckle bushes. The gearbox mount had blown up like a balloon with how it had failed.

It's a good job me and my partner really love this car and enjoy what it can do.