Just replaced my diff for a second time after the pinion bearing failed after 70 000kms. I ended up importing one to Australia from the UK as it was $1000AUD cheaper than having mine fixed over here. The seller claims it has a toughened nose bearing so I live in hope!
I would be interested to know what people do to prevent the pinion bearing from failing. I do intend to change the oil regularly and the haldex software has been upgraded (not that it helped with old diff). Does anyone use any additives or have any advice?

I fill it to level and do not remove any fluid and I also added Liqimoly MoS2 anti friction gear, tw years now; I changed the diff oil annually. I also had the original rebuilt JIC, should have added a drain but I digress.

When bell engineering did an exchange diff this year I had a bottom drain plug put in for future regular oil changes to help it last longer

Years ago it was normal to add MolySlip to your rear diff and manual gearbox oil (Molybdenum Disulphide) the aim being to coat the gears with this very slippery substance. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Yes I recall that it was quite a trendy thing to add to your gearbox etc back then. I see Slick 50 is still around. But I don't think there was any rigorous scientific evidence to say these additives were worth the effort/expense.
A bit like Super diesel - snake oil IMO (unlike super petrol which has a higher octane rating and gives a bit more power). Jules

As I understand it, gradually loses it's effectiveness as the long molecules are snipped into pieces by the action of the gears.

So usage should be a bigger factor in deciding changes than just time.

I also remember the fantastic promises made for using Molyslip, and still have half a tin in my shed, keeping my redundant grease gun company. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Luke G wrote:

Just replaced my diff for a second time after the pinion bearing failed after 70 000kms. I ended up importing one to Australia from the UK as it was $1000AUD cheaper than having mine fixed over here. The seller claims it has a toughened nose bearing so I live in hope!
I would be interested to know what people do to prevent the pinion bearing from failing. I do intend to change the oil regularly and the haldex software has been upgraded (not that it helped with old diff). Does anyone use any additives or have any advice?

Many thanks to everyone for the feedback. Re the cost of a Diff rebuild in Australia, it is prohibitively expensive. I was told by a number of places that it would be $3000+ AUD if I left them the car and $2000 if I removed the diff and put it back in myself. I read about the phenomenal work by Bell Engineering and wished I could have shipped the car back to the UK to have them do it! In the end it cost me $1700 AUD to import a rebuilt one(still not cheap) but this was easier, more convenient and cheaper than taking it to someone here. A breaker was going to charge me $1500 for a second hand one with who knows how much life left in it. Interestingly, when I went to remove the old diff (re-built 70 000kms by whom I thought was a trusted mechanic) I found the tail shaft bolts finger tight and the breather tubes not connected (I wonder if potential water ingress through the holes contributed to the failure??). Anyway, I will be treating this one with regular fluid changes and anything else I can do to extend its life!

Hey Luke G, not sure where you are in Oz, had mine rebuilt in Perth by diff specialists for $1400, and very happy with the work. Used quality bearings (I've forgotten the brand). Though I have only travelled ~40,000km since.

Make sure you furnish whoever is going to fit your reconditioned diff with the correct oil. If you do not provide the oil they will fill it up will whatever is in their 44 gallon drum. And the same stuff will go in the haldex too (not joking), if you don't provide the haldex oil. Do you know if correct oil was used the first time? MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Hi Impact,
I'm in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney so shopped around places in Sydney to try and find someone who would do it this side of Xmas and for a reasonable cost but as mentioned previously did not have any luck. Wow, $1400 sounds a good price, did that include removal and installation of the diff from the car or did you do it? I don't know if the correct oil was used the first time I must admit (maybe not). Interestingly, one place I spoke to who seemed to know the car/diff well, said they don't use the recommended 80/90 grade diff oil after a re-build but recommend an 80/140 grade with an additive (they didn't tell me what the additive was).

I've been using AMSOIL Severe Gear Synthetic 80W-90, I have 70k miles on my second diff, so good so far. 40k mile OCI.

A heavier weight would likely be better for wear. In an engine or tranny you need to run the specified weight or bad things can happen. In a simple gearbox like a diff, I'm fairly certain the only ramification of heavier oil would be reduced fuel economy.

However, there's a risk that the oil circulation might be impaired with too heavy of an oil... diffs tend to rely on splash flow from the ring gear to lube other parts, like bearings.

Probably not necessary to replace the oil annually. Annual or bi-annual oil changes are necessary for engine oil because of combustion by-products which react badly with any moisture. There's nothing like that in a diff, unless maybe your roads are contaminated (which they are in the UK it seems). In California or Australia, the climate's dry and there's not much salt on the roads. If you off-road in deep water, or launch boats, then yeah might want to replace it annually. Otherwise any moisture from the air just gets evaporated as soon as the diff gets hot on a good highway run.

Using a magnetic drain plug will also extend your reasonable OCI. I drilled and tapped the diff, for that reason.

My gut feel is that the best thing you can do for these diffs is synthetic oil, with reasonably regular changes based on climate and whether you have a magnet.

Hey Luke G, yes $1400 included all the work. I dropped the car off in the morning and collected it the following day.

The other thing I forgot to mention, apart from furnishing your mechanic with the right fluids for the job, do print out instructions on the correct procedure for filling Haldex unit with fluid and hand it to the person who is actually going to be doing the work. A 100ml syringe with a length of correctly sized silicone tube should also be included with the things you give the person doing the work. Do no assume that the person who is doing the work will stop what he is doing to go to the front office to jump on the computer and look up Haldex filling procedure for Freelander 2, or to source a syringe. Make it easy for your mechanic to do a good job. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Many thanks Merlin and Impact for the suggestions. Merlin - I will give the AMSOIL a go, I used it once years ago as an engine oil in a Peugeot and it was really good, I actually noticed the engine was smoother and a little perkier as a result. It was expensive back then but looking at the prices these days it is quite competitive with other brands.

Impact, that price is really good value compared to what I was quoted in our part of the country. I actually ended up ordering a re-built diff from the UK for $1700 and put it in myself. It wasn't a super hard job but did take a bit of time to get it right.

Forget snake oil.
Fit a drain plug and change the oil every time you change the engine oil - mine was good as new after 185,000+ miles.

Sucking the oil out will leave the metal filings in the bottom, draining it the old fashioned way will get rid of the very abrasive filings, not rocket science.

Think about it from the LR accountants view. Remove the drain plug and there is one machining process less, and you don't buy a £2 drain plug and washer. Half a million cars later = huge saving. Vast majority of diffs will last the three years so win win for the accountant. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner