Geobloke wrote:

Place lid in position, washer, spring washer and nut. Tighten down to seal.

I had a similar problem with the threads wearing - I just used a slightly larger diameter coarse thread screw.
It only gets unscrewed once a year.

Though I really like the cable tie hack. Jules

With the airbox bolts I just put in Helicoils

Lightwater wrote:

Geobloke wrote:

Place lid in position, washer, spring washer and nut. Tighten down to seal.

Watch those spring washes, diabolical things that often actually loosen nuts. Better off with Nyloc nuts (although Nyloc nuts should not be reused, in this situation I can't see an issue).

I almost did use nylocs but decided that I'd give the spring washers a go, can always switch if and when needed

jules wrote:

I had a similar problem with the threads wearing - I just used a slightly larger diameter coarse thread screw.
It only gets unscrewed once a year.

Though I really like the cable tie hack.

I think the cable tie hack came from this very forum as it happens. It's a good one

Just a little job this afternoon before the darkness once again consumes these Welsh valleys

Phoebe has a 12S tow socket and since I have recently bought a CTEK MXS-5.0 battery charger (my very old Halfords charger went walkies one day...) I figured a 12S tow socket to CTEK adapter would be a good idea to keep the battery topped up over Winter.

It is an easy wiring job once you have a CTEK socket and 12S plug. Pin 4 to +ve (red) and Pin 3 to -ve (black). Job done.

Time for a maintenance charge over night...



Although looking at her folks might think she's got bigger problems...

Wheels are set at the same angle as the wheelchairs used by the para-rugby players and look how it improves their speed and mobility around the pitch

This is true. Super good in the corners, but the tyre shoulder wear is something to behold...

Well a few weekends ago Ol' Phoebe and I had a merry time of it. I had been waiting for a dry weekend to get down to doing a job of work in the engine bay:

checking the glow plugs (pretty sure they weren't working),
checking the swirl flaps,
fitting an EGR blanking plate,
renewing the air filter,
renew fuel filter,
and the engine oil and filter...

I knew the job of getting to the glow plugs was going to be a task and it really was, definitely up there on the spanner rating scale, but mostly due to it being a fiddly job though. Lots of bits have to come off to get to the glow plugs.



So out with the camp table, tools parts and most importantly... mug of coffee... As you can see there was more than the above planned...



Next off with the fuel filter, fuel lines and inlet manifold





I wasn't surprised to see the amount of baked on oily deposits within the manifold, but nicely surprised to see that the swirl flaps were all present and correct.









Now exposed, unplug the glow plugs and time for a coffee to replenish the DIY courage before attempting to remove the glow plugs. Lots of bad experiences out there with regards to removing old glow plugs. For this a deep 8mm socket was needed. Much to my utter joy and surprise all of the glow plugs came out with little effort. The relief was immense i can tell you.



Was it worth the effort? Oh yes... Not one glow plug worked



Dead, dead, dead... This is what should have happened



Next job was the clean up. The oily mess took a lot of time and effort to remove, but it relinquished its hold in the components eventually. Left to dry overnight.







The next morning the rebuild began, including the EGR blanking plate and believe it or not it all went back together fairly easily



And started on the button too Much much smoother cold idle too.

Buoyed by this success I went on to replace all the rest of the oils as Phoebe is getting on a bit, so much time was spent sucking out the fluids with the 500ml syringe. It's not a difficult task, but time consuming, especially when all oils are cold. All the fluids were well past their best. Brown, sludgey, dirty smelling... Not in the best of condition to say the least.

The only thing I couldn't do was the Haldex filter and pump. I ran out of time and importantly tools I lacked the bit to get the propshaft bolts off. Which is a to say the least. So she's 90% refreshed... I think this might be a job for a professional... maybe...

Well another dry saturday, which is nice. Todays task was to get Phoebe back on her tyres.

So job 1: Since she has been up on axle stands for a week or so all is dry underneath so a quick top up of Lanoguard within the wheel arches to see her through the winter. Wheels rotated (diagonal front to back) and pressures topped up. They were all a good 7 PSI down since the outdoor temperatures have dropped.

Job 2: test drive to check for oil leaks after the last weeks work. After 30 minutes there were no obvious leaks. Will check again tomorrow after everything has cooled down.

Well when I say no leaks... that's not exactly correct A new leak has popped up. Probably age of the part and the drop in temperature. We've had a good number of 0 degC mornings lately so I suspect some of the components are a little hard. Where you might ask is the leak...



Spotted it yet?



Yup a small pool of diesel in the injector well Balls...! A good look around and there is diesel along the pipes leading from the leak off connector, the sheen is diesel



But, I do not think it is the pipe because the top of the connector looks really wet, especially compared to the other three.


Wet



Dry





So I think it is the o-ring within the connector allowing diesel to leak past it. So, I believe the part number is

LR054612... or Bosch F00VP01003... Is that right folks?

Or is it worth replacing the whole leak off pipe set? LR051528

Opinions??

So, I have found an alternative solution to the missing rubber grommets of Phoebe's acoustic cover.

These are motorcycle fairing grommets and include a metal insert. They are a little taller, a smidge smaller in overall diameter, the vertical indent gap is a tad bigger...












..., but critically the internal diameter is the same as the standard grommet so it fits perfectly in to the holes of the acoustic cover and once the metal insert is fitted the M6 flanged bolt fits perfectly. The metal insert snugs down nicely on to the captive nuts and the cover doesn't rattle at all when the engine is on anymore.






Not bad for 10 minutes during coffee break So, now I have 8 spares...



In other news and not surprisingly, but pleasantly I suppose, after the oil changes the old girl starts much better first thing in the morning. Plus the gear changes are much smoother. Happy man. Just waiting on the leak off connector o-rings now and she will be good for a good while.

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Geobloke wrote:

Well another dry saturday, which is nice. Todays task was to get Phoebe back on her tyres.

So job 1: Since she has been up on axle stands for a week or so all is dry underneath so a quick top up of Lanoguard within the wheel arches to see her through the winter. Wheels rotated (diagonal front to back) and pressures topped up. They were all a good 7 PSI down since the outdoor temperatures have dropped.

Job 2: test drive to check for oil leaks after the last weeks work. After 30 minutes there were no obvious leaks. Will check again tomorrow after everything has cooled down.

Well when I say no leaks... that's not exactly correct A new leak has popped up. Probably age of the part and the drop in temperature. We've had a good number of 0 degC mornings lately so I suspect some of the components are a little hard. Where you might ask is the leak...



Spotted it yet?



Yup a small pool of diesel in the injector well Balls...! A good look around and there is diesel along the pipes leading from the leak off connector, the sheen is diesel



But, I do not think it is the pipe because the top of the connector looks really wet, especially compared to the other three.


Wet



Dry





So I think it is the o-ring within the connector allowing diesel to leak past it. So, I believe the part number is

LR054612... or Bosch F00VP01003... Is that right folks?

Or is it worth replacing the whole leak off pipe set? LR051528

Opinions??

Quote:

Did exactly the same job Saturday just gone although all my plugs were working, manifold looked like yours and gaskets rough so job half worthwhile

Had the same diesel leak which looked to be tracing back to one of the connectors, gone ahead and ordered the leak off pipes (LR051528 https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr051528...27-p.asp), o-rings (part no. LR054612 https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr054612-o-ring-1006403-p.asp) and going to pop out the injectors at the same time to check condition and change over the washers (LR0000684 https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr000684...37-p.asp).

Possibly over kill to swap the pipes out but don't know when they were last done so thought might as well

Brilliant. Definitely worth the effort as from what I have read those glow plugs are more often than not dead.

Thanks for the part numbers and links very very useful Step one the seals and see if anything breaks along the way

Are you mechanics or just self taught doing all that . If self taught i take my hat off to you, way out of my league.

Quote:

Are you mechanics or just self taught doing all that . If self taught i take my hat off to you, way out of my league.

Thanks. I am 100% self taught. Well actually I would lay at least 60% at the door of being a Meccanno loving kid, a further 30% at the door of wanting to "know how it works" and the final 10% at the door of "I wonder what would happen if"...