Okay , some of you will know I drive an Ateca now 2litre 4 drive lovely car....


ANYWAY on one of the forums some lad asks is it best to change all 4 tyres at the same time to which someone says : -

"You can replace all 4 or less good pair but always put better on front wheels because 4drive is primary FWD so you need better grip on front…"

and a reply from an . . .'expert' :-

"I personally would research this subject more thoroughly before handing out advice which is in fact wrong.
The best tyres should be on the rear of the vehicle regardless of whether front or rear wheel drive! 😳"

When asked why ??

he said :- "If your rears are worn and the fronts are new, it increases the chance of oversteer/sliding which most drivers won’t react to until it’s too late.
The other way round, rears are new and front are old creates understeer which is far easier to manage and expect."


Well I never

What dya reckon ? 2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

As far as I’m aware, most of the major tyre manufacturers say to fit newer tyres to the rear for that reason. I’d be interested to hear other expert opinions as well. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I put new ones on the front. I have got them on the rear presently simply because I was experiencing with tyre wear & noise. Also simultaneously seeing how noisy the older tyres are so needed to move them to the front. My other 2 used spares actually have the second most tread.

As I have 6 wheels so they can be rotated in pairs. But if you have 5 just rotate a bit more frequently. The front left tyre will wear the quickest & tends to suffer the most punctures (for people who drive on the proper side of the road).

Also don't panic about the different diameter of a worn tyre. If you calculate the percentage difference of tread, you have greater issues driving around shopping centre car parks. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I do know the advice for 2 wheel drive is new to rear,
easier "generally" to control if the front breaks away,
and the rear will loss grip a lot easier than the front.
But having used a skidpan this can be proved wrong
best on a FWD is rotate and buy 4. IMHO. DAVE.

I agree with dave47, the advice about tyre changing was written long ago for rear driven cars, and definitely before all the automatic stability aids of modern cars. (although note that the aids mainly use the rear brakes to stabilise the car)

I tend to rotate my tyres. admittedly not very often, and change all 4 well before they lose tread and become a skid risk.

Better safe than sorry. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I have an up hill hairpin turn out of our street. Even in the wettest of weather the wheels have never broken free from the road & it doesn't matter how hard you push the accelerator. The car simply stays within the limitations.

Previous cars, ok they were 2wd, but I often got wheel spin being careful.

I do turn off the stability control when driving on the "soap" covered roads in western NSW as the road confuses the car, where you can slide off the the road from literally standing still. Happened many times. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Soap covered roads, what's that? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

It is this clay type material, when wet acts like liquid ball bearings. When it drys it sets like concrete & you knock it off with a hammer.

Spent about 20 minutes a corner on the car removing it before it sets. It is horrible stuff.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Lightwater wrote:

I have an up hill hairpin turn out of our street. Even in the wettest of weather the wheels have never broken free from the road & it doesn't matter how hard you push the accelerator. The car simply stays within the limitations.

Previous cars, ok they were 2wd, but I often got wheel spin being careful.

I do turn off the stability control when driving on the "soap" covered roads in western NSW as the road confuses the car, where you can slide off the the road from literally standing still. Happened many times.

Yes, the car slides down the road camber. No different to driving on polished ice. As soon as you hit the scrub on the side of the road you get grip. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

@Lightwater, thanks for clarifying. I've actually had this happen in snow mode on sheet ice on a north/south road (wind swept). Now I can turn off DSC and avoid this unnerving feeling.

Regardless of over/understeer, and 2/4 wheel drive considerations; if you're driving in a straight line and have to make an emergency slow, then the weight off the car will throw onto the front wheels and leave the rear wheels lighter, all the more reason to have good grip on the rear wheels to maintain even stability.

Whilst I understand the arguments I would like to throw in an alternative view point…

On a heavily soaked road new tyres on the front will drastically reduce the chance of aquaplaning …they will clear most of the water before the rears roll over the same area… and you can maintain steering control rather than worn fronts which will pitch you into the nearest hedge..

Only a thought….

It's why cars have ABS. The front is doing pretty much all the work. You only have to look at the brake discs. The front ones on the petrol model are even a bit larger than the diesel. Same solid ones on the rear.

It you have never actually experienced ABS, plant your foot, in a safe situation somewhere, better without any passengers so they don't do their neck in.


Driving on ice or "soap" you have to turn off the stability control otherwise the ABS is constantly going, being confused by the road surface. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

MotionInc wrote:

@Lightwater, thanks for clarifying. I've actually had this happen in snow mode on sheet ice on a north/south road (wind swept). Now I can turn off DSC and avoid this unnerving feeling.