Nodge ..... Don't know why I got the smoke. I assumed sunburnt diesel, but what you say makes sense. I think I will try and find the correct vin Febi sensor and go from there.Auto doc have been a complete pita. Not for the first time. Great for cheap parts, if supplied correctly, not good for returns, especially when it's their fault. I will not be using them again. Thanks to all contributers, sorry for the double post......

jules wrote:

Nodge68 wrote:

LR use Febi, as that's a PSA OE supplier.
I'd avoid cheap Ebay specials, as the pins are often too thin, causing bad connections which results in rapid sensor failure. I've had 2 cheap sensors fail in 18 months, so I now have a Febi sensor, and I replaced the plug too, so a firm connection was guaranteed.

How did you replace the plug?

FWIW I find the JLR connectors break easily when old; the locking tab snaps - but maybe im using the wrong technique to open the plug.

Actually the old plug came apart ok. The plug is a Sicma 3+ IIRC. I had to order it from the USA.
I did buy 2 new plugs though, and gold plated terminals to go with them, as the shipping was so high.
However as the plug came apart so easily, I'd just buy the terminals next time, as those are available in the UK, which unfortunately the plug body wasn't at the time I needed it.
New sensor and new plug components



Old plug was bought up to the top of the engine for easier working.

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The cable entry panel was opened.

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Then the cables were pushed through for some slack.

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The nose section was slipped forward.

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The silicone seal was eased out next.

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Under the nose section are some plastic fingers, which grip the pins. These need to be carefully lifted, and each pin pulled out.

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Like this. Obviously the original sequence needs to be noted.

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All the pins pulled out.

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The old pins were cut off and the wire insulation stripped back. Here the new plug body and seal has been slipped over the cut wires.

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The new pins were crimped and soldered to the wires.

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The new pins were then slipped into the new plug body

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Finally the plug body was reassemble.

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The new plug trial fitted to the new sensor.

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 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Grimdog wrote:

Nodge ..... Don't know why I got the smoke. I assumed sunburnt diesel, but what you say makes sense. I think I will try and find the correct vin Febi sensor and go from there.Auto doc have been a complete pita. Not for the first time. Great for cheap parts, if supplied correctly, not good for returns, especially when it's their fault. I will not be using them again. Thanks to all contributers, sorry for the double post......

There are 2 types of crank sensor.
The early type has a higher square section and 2 ribs between the square section and the plug socket.
The later type has a large size but flatter square section, and 3 ribs between the square section and the plug socket.

Here's the 2 different types, later on the left, early on the right.

Click image to enlarge

Mine is a 2009MY and has the later type fitted. However mine has had a large amount of engine work done before I got it, unfortunately not very good quality work by all accounts. But I don't know when the later type of sensor and target wheel were installed from the factory. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Looks like the connector is common to both types

Are these inter changeable? wil both work regardless of MY? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

great pics @Nodge - thanks Jules

I Like Chips wrote:

Looks like the connector is common to both types

I Like Chips wrote:

Looks like the connector is common to both types

Rommel wrote:

Are these inter changeable? will both work regardless of MY?

The forum rules agin, thanks to the wealth of knowledge of the members. 😃

2010 HSE auto diesel.
Which would be the correct part no for my car please.
LR000681 is coming up but is that for me or do I need the later one, help please Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

are the sensors the same tor the 150 HP and the 190 HP engines

The later sensor fits TD4 models if it's got the later target wheel.
Early TD4s could have early or later sensors, so you would need to check before ordering.
The SD4 came out well after the later target wheel became started, so an SD4 will definitely be a later sensor.
You can't really go by BHP on the TD4, as there are outputs varied between 150 and 160 BHP. Early DPF equipped TD4s were listed as 150BHP, the non DPF TD4 being 160 BHP, then the later DPF TD4 became almost 160 BHP, so it gets confusing.
Best to describe them as TD4 and SD4, to save confusion. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I bought LR one from Taggarts Landrover. Cost me £128.
Car is running great. Also got new Glowplugs from LR.
Will probably be my last car and intend to fit the original where possible Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Nodge, An interesting and informative set of pictures.
Is there an extraction tool for the pins, as this would make it easier, and less likely to damage the plug body fixings? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I don't know if there's actually a tool to lift the retaining fingers out the way, but I'm guessing that as these sorts of plugs are a once only design, it's unlikely.
It is possible to lift them without damage though. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.