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Peterpod



Member Since: 18 Sep 2022
Location: North East
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 
Alarm not working

My son removed fuse 21 about a month ago (2004 TD4 s) as fobs were not working and was using the key to open the passenger door which had caused the alarm to sound. I have now replaced the fuse along with the batteries in the fobs. The problem is the fobs dont work but opening the passenger door with the key no longer causes the alarm to sound. Has anyone any idea what the problem may be. Thanks

Post #425406 19th Sep 2022 12:07 pm
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Sidthecat



Member Since: 10 Sep 2017
Location: Sarf-East London-sur-Mer
Posts: 1635

England 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Sorry, I apologise for being a grumpy old Censored but why do first posters never introduce themselves?

Post #425408 19th Sep 2022 1:04 pm
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NoDo$h



Member Since: 27 May 2008
Location: fings go booooom.
Posts: 490

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Santorini Black
Re: Alarm not working

Peterpod wrote:
(2004 TD4 s)


That would be a Freelander 1, built when BMW were at the helm with a mix of Rover, BMW and Honda derived parts.

Freelander 2 was produced under Ford ownership on a completely different platform, engine, gearbox etc. The only common parts I'm aware of are a couple of badges.

Try the LandyZone Freelander subforum. Thumbs Up Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

Post #425410 19th Sep 2022 1:58 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red
Re: Alarm not working

Peterpod wrote:
My son removed fuse 21 about a month ago (2004 TD4 s) as fobs were not working and was using the key to open the passenger door which had caused the alarm to sound. I have now replaced the fuse along with the batteries in the fobs. The problem is the fobs dont work but opening the passenger door with the key no longer causes the alarm to sound. Has anyone any idea what the problem may be. Thanks


Have you synchronised the fobs?, as explained in the owners handbook?

Anything more complex, you need to ask in a different forum altogether, something like Landyzone. Thumbs Up

This forum is for the Freelander 2, which is a completely different vehicle, and shares just 1 minor trim part with the old Freelander 1. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #425417 19th Sep 2022 4:44 pm
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Peterpod



Member Since: 18 Sep 2022
Location: North East
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 

Sorry gents it's a 2007. Definitely a freelander 2. I haven't got any idea about them it's my sons car just trying to get it sorted so he can sell it. Not sure what kind of introduction you are looking for. I just joined the site looking for some assistance and I've had a look on various sites and google and cant see anything about alarms stopping working just going off when they shouldnt. I dont know if he has a handbook. Is there an online guide to syncing fobs? Neither if his appear to do anything. Should the alarm activate if just using the key as it used to but was that because it had been originally set with a fob before it failed? Many thanks

Post #425420 19th Sep 2022 5:09 pm
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Sidthecat



Member Since: 10 Sep 2017
Location: Sarf-East London-sur-Mer
Posts: 1635

England 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Introduction? Well, how about “hello, I’m new here and am after some advice please” Sorry if my reply was a bit blunt but there’s a lot just pop on here, ask a technical query and just Censored off afterwards. Sounds you may be the same - son looking to resolve problem, then selling.
Oh well, obviously just me be a grumpy Censored

Post #425434 19th Sep 2022 8:58 pm
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BossBob



Member Since: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1402

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

2007 FL2’s don’t have batteries in the fobs they are soldered in capacitors and need to be charged by the key dock in the car which happens as you are driving the car.

Post #425435 19th Sep 2022 9:10 pm
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Peterpod



Member Since: 18 Sep 2022
Location: North East
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 

Thanks but there are VL2330 3V Rechargeable lithium batteries in the fobs which are soldered in and these have been changed. I agree that these are charged whilst docked but are currently showing as 3v on a multimeter so I know the batteries are good.
I have no way of telling if the fobs should now be working. I just don't know how the alarm should work as previously it would go off as soon as the door was opened with the key which is why the alarm fuse 21 was removed. it just seems to me that the alarm and remote key fobs are both dependent on whatever fuse 21 supplies so wonder if being disconnected for so long has caused this to go faulty? I am surprised i cant find any real info via google hense the reason for joining the group.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated
Thanks, Peter

Post #425437 19th Sep 2022 10:17 pm
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Grimdog



Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 316

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Barolo Black

Sidthecat wrote:
Introduction? Well, how about “hello, I’m new here and am after some advice please” Sorry if my reply was a bit blunt but there’s a lot just pop on here, ask a technical query and just Censored off afterwards. Sounds you may be the same - son looking to resolve problem, then selling.
Oh well, obviously just me be a grumpy Censored


Sid the cat .......again! See my earlier posts.........sorry I can not help the OP as I am not familiar with this problem.......good luck👍

Post #425438 19th Sep 2022 10:34 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Peterpod wrote:
Thanks but there are VL2330 3V Rechargeable lithium batteries in the fobs which are soldered in and these have been changed. I agree that these are charged whilst docked but are currently showing as 3v on a multimeter so I know the batteries are good.
I have no way of telling if the fobs should now be working. I just don't know how the alarm should work as previously it would go off as soon as the door was opened with the key which is why the alarm fuse 21 was removed. it just seems to me that the alarm and remote key fobs are both dependent on whatever fuse 21 supplies so wonder if being disconnected for so long has caused this to go faulty? I am surprised i cant find any real info via google hense the reason for joining the group.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated
Thanks, Peter


Some history might help.
Why was the vehicle being locked with the emergency key?
Unfortunately the security system in these vehicles is deeply integrated into the electronics system, with many components linked together to make it work. A code read should point you in the right direction to find the issue. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #425440 20th Sep 2022 5:00 am
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Peterpod



Member Since: 18 Sep 2022
Location: North East
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 

Thanks. As i said in original post he was using the key as the fobs stopped working. One had never worked since he bought the car but other one stopped opening the car. Both work fine to start the car. He used the key to open the car but that set alarm off every time so he removed the alarm fuse 21 to stop this. When the fuse was replaced after a few weeks the Alarm no longer sounds when unlocking the car. I'll see if I can get it plugged in to diagnostics thanks.

Post #425441 20th Sep 2022 6:45 am
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Jagracer



Member Since: 22 Feb 2019
Location: east anglia
Posts: 198

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Bali Blue

HI, I have just put new batteries in two keys, both stopped working afterwards. Using a powerfull magnifier, I found the tracks are damaged around the battery terminals. I have soldered jump wires on one to get it working, but its not a success. What happens is that the small terminal on the battery breaks, and wears a hole in the board, getting the stub out is the problem that cuts the track. The locking system gets confused, and using the key only confuses it more. I have just bought an Autel 200 device to program new keys. It is showing three faulty microswitches in the door locks, so you might have that as well. It is a complex system, and disabling the central locking might stop th car starting as a result, as the CanBus gets out of sync. If you find a solution, you will be a hero!

Post #425482 21st Sep 2022 7:04 pm
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