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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver
Shocked At Parts Prices

Had a spare quarter of an hour this afternoon while waiting to pick someone up, so I thought I would have a check under the bonnet as you do. Shock horror the cover in the cowl, the one that sits over the break fluid cut out had disappeared. Can't have that now can we.

On checking the online LR prices for a new one, well what can I say inflation in our time again.

I managed to find a genuine LR one at a penny under £20 including postage from a main dealer. so went for that, before they discovered their out of date pricing. It's still what I consider to be a high price to pay though.

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/l...panel.html

Post #424360 18th Aug 2022 8:01 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5001

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Yep, JLR massively increased the prices of some spare parts.

Want a new damper for your glove box (LR039802) ? Then be prepared to shell out over £100 for something that used to cost £20 IIRC Jules

Post #424366 18th Aug 2022 10:40 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

I'd be more concerned as to where the cover got to?
They don't just fall off, or do they? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #424370 19th Aug 2022 8:03 am
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Mine did maybe I didn't click it on right but it's the second one in the last four years, so third one on the car, when it arrives............... same as diff that's the third one too


Perhaps it's with my extensive collection of 10mm spanners and sockets lurking on the undertray attached to my magnet. If it is then it needs to stay there for another 3,000 miles, unless yet another problem necessitates the trays removal beforehand.

Post #424386 19th Aug 2022 12:57 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

3rd diff, in how long?
Although I'm thinking mine is on borrowed time, as the oil came out grey last month, which was a surprise considering it had only done 5k after I rebuilt it. Big Cry Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #424401 19th Aug 2022 5:00 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

The first diff was replaced at 59,000 miles
The second one was replaced at 91,000 miles
Now running on the third one currently at 123,000 miles

adding no towing or off road just normal use, I like to keep it below 2000 revs

Post #424416 19th Aug 2022 7:53 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Nodge68 wrote:
3rd diff, in how long?
Although I'm thinking mine is on borrowed time, as the oil came out grey last month, which was a surprise considering it had only done 5k after I rebuilt it. Big Cry


What like at 8.40 into the movie

Post #424420 19th Aug 2022 8:33 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

No nothing that bad. Just a metallic sheene to the oil that came out. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #424422 19th Aug 2022 9:11 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

I Like Chips wrote:
The first diff was replaced at 59,000 miles
The second one was replaced at 91,000 miles
Now running on the third one currently at 123,000 miles

adding no towing or off road just normal use, I like to keep it below 2000 revs


You should think about getting a magnetic fill plug

My 2008 has about 130K on the original Diff

I installed a magnet plug at about 50K

The small wear particles will cause more and more wear and eventually fail the diff bearing


I did get some noise at 50K but it is quite now. Note I did remove the plug and clean it to remove the steel particles


Good luck

Paul

Post #424429 20th Aug 2022 1:17 am
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Good point I have stick to magnets on the engine sump, the PTU and the gearbox,

I put in a drain for the 2nd diff that I put a magnet on as well but this current box hasn't got the casing with the dimple.

I wonder if a stick to magnet would work on the diff box with the plug being on the side, it should do since it should also magnetise the plug itself.

Just wondering do you have the plug size for the diff handy please

Post #424433 20th Aug 2022 7:16 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661-390.html

Good luck

Post #424435 20th Aug 2022 8:07 am
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Raywin



Member Since: 20 May 2016
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 55

England 

I Like Chips wrote:
Good point I have stick to magnets on the engine sump, the PTU and the gearbox,

I put in a drain for the 2nd diff that I put a magnet on as well but this current box hasn't got the casing with the dimple.

I wonder if a stick to magnet would work on the diff box with the plug being on the side, it should do since it should also magnetise the plug itself.

Just wondering do you have the plug size for the diff handy please


When my diff failed (37k miles) I drilled the casing and added a drain plug with a magnet it is 14m.
When I stripped the diff the oil sparkled with metal flakes so I thought the magnet could only help.
It's important to drill an tap it square so that it won't leak. I also swapped the diff oil to castrol synthetic. So far its fine

Post #424439 20th Aug 2022 8:28 am
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2183

United Kingdom 

I Like Chips wrote:
The first diff was replaced at 59,000 miles
The second one was replaced at 91,000 miles
Now running on the third one currently at 123,000 miles

adding no towing or off road just normal use, I like to keep it below 2000 revs


Doesn't make sense, ours was still on the original diff at 185,000+ miles, towed a caravan all over Europe and the UK. Always drove it like I stole it, happy enough to sit at the lights with left foot on the brake at 2,000 rpm, lights change, plant the accelerator in the floor and let off the brakes, spin all four wheels.

It did have a drain plug from around 50k onwards, and had the diff oil changed at every service. Maybe actually draining the oil rather than sucking it out makes a difference. The Haldex had a problem around 12k and was repaired by the dealer - never touched it again, still have the oil that I was "eventually" going to do a service with.

And yes the 4x4 system was still operating, it was instantly obvious when I lost 4x4 as the PTU stripped the splines at around 150k. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #424443 20th Aug 2022 8:55 am
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

I know, I was told they usually go at around 55 to 60 thou. The second one was a recon unit, this third the current one is from Bell so hoping it will last.

Post #424449 20th Aug 2022 1:57 pm
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2183

United Kingdom 

The problem with recon diffs is that it takes patience and experience, a lot of both.

You can rebuild a diff using new bearings and seals and it will be quiet and last a while. You can rebuild them with a big pile of shims, torque wrench, weighted arm, engineers blue and end up stripping them ten times to get it just right. Have lost count of the number of diffs that I rebuilt as a young engineer, can't imagine that they teach it now - just slap a new one in. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #424450 20th Aug 2022 2:46 pm
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