Anyone know what the correct oil pressure should be? Live readings are great, but only if you know what the expected range of values is. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

This from the Haynes manual!

 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I read here on the forum that oil filters from brands that are not manufacturers but only sellers (Febi, Meyle, etc.) caused problems with the valve that was supposed to open the drain to the tub when the filter was changed. in the first freel2, the oil pressure light is electronically controlled and does not light up during a short period of low pressure and not at all at low pressure. and as I read correctly, freel2 after the facelift is worse and does not check the oil pressure at all, but only estimates using temperature calculations, etc.
so I'll think about whether those dry heads did fall victim to such filters. the freelander would probably really need an oil pressure gauge. I will probably buy and install an electric pressure gauge. with a car with 324,000 km, I won't go crazy if there is some non-original alarm clock on the dashboard.

interesting bernie you have the link of the discussion, to understand how it was verified, it is nice to read this interest and participation. do you have the version without dpf? The strange thing that I could not find anything about this, on the non land models that have this engine, citroen, ford duratorq 2.2 tdci etc.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31826.ht...l+pressure
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic18979.ht...l+pressure

Thanks Bernie, I have read everything even if I do not think it is directly the cause of the failure of my engine, always quality filters and I have read other cases with service from mamma land. As a layman and with the few data available, I have only read about cases with a dpf engine, so I thought about the specific c1 oil that helps in consumption and dpf filter but is not the best for engine protection

Just wondering could you tell me why you say the C1 oil is not the best for protection please

Due to the particle filter, the C1 has a reduced, basically main, anti-friction additive ZDDP. simply put, it's phosphorus and zinc. I thought so too, but on the Russian forum I saw a car with stripped rockers from 2007. I don't think that a 2007 car would have a filter, especially in Russia. on the other hand, I don't know what kind of oil they used there. then there is the problem of why some rockers from one engine are perfectly fine. I think that for the time being in this issue, each answer will give birth to more questions...

I agree Bernie,
I think this video explains very well the importance of oil ... certainly psa engines are not really long-lived engines

Definately a poor oil quality wear result. According to correspondants on other forums, a lot of garages use drums of bulk cheap oil for servicing their customers cars. They certainly do around my area, as I have supplied the currect oil to them myself. A lot of main dealer serviced cars are using cheap oil, not expensive Castrol Edge, etc. When I was management in an engineering company some years ago, I used to buy Fleet Taxi Spec. Havoline oil, as it it had a long life additive in it. I have a FL2 engine in the shed if you need it. 145k miles, it was thought to be seized, but turned out to be a stuck starter motor.

in further research into what could be causing the problem with the rockers and valves, i came across an article about soot in engine oil. soot, especially that from the EGR, collects in the oil and the valve train suffers the most, where the oil film is thinner than the soot particles. with more content, they clump together and become even larger. they are abrasive and even have the ability to displace oil. on the other hand, the piston group and the crank mechanism (mainly our engines have it massively) is quite resistant to this problem. the crank floats in pressure oil and the pistons are also well supplied with oil and rarely just a base film remains. otherwise, the only thing left to protect DW12 engines is frequent oil changes and the best way to turn off the EGR system. during operation, avoid combining high revs with a cold engine or long idling with a hot engine.
here is an article that is more important than this crap of mine:

https://www.oil-club.ru/sazha-v-dizelnom-dvigatele/

What's the take home with the engine wear

Regular Oil changes, say every 6,000 miles using the correct spec oil
Replace the filter on each oil change with a good make
Warm the engine before doing the oil change
Go easy on the revs until the engine warms up
Check the oil level what say every week or every fortnight


Nothing new there.

Jagracer wrote:

Definately a poor oil quality wear result. According to correspondants on other forums, a lot of garages use drums of bulk cheap oil for servicing their customers cars. They certainly do around my area, as I have supplied the currect oil to them myself. A lot of main dealer serviced cars are using cheap oil, not expensive Castrol Edge, etc. When I was management in an engineering company some years ago, I used to buy Fleet Taxi Spec. Havoline oil, as it it had a long life additive in it. I have a FL2 engine in the shed if you need it. 145k miles, it was thought to be seized, but turned out to be a stuck starter motor.

I would love to see what else you have in that shed

I Like Chips wrote:

What's the take home with the engine wear

Regular Oil changes, say every 6,000 miles using the correct spec oil
Replace the filter on each oil change with a good make
Warm the engine before doing the oil change
Go easy on the revs until the engine warms up
Check the oil level what say every week or every fortnight


Nothing new there.