Fair comment Richard.
Unfortunately that still makes no difference to the issue.
However I am fairly optimistic that a solution is not far away.
Awaiting some new diagnostic tools then possibly new parts.
Can't say anymore at the moment.

Thanks for taking the time to contribute though  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

gasman wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions.

I forgot to mention the glow plugs, they were replace about a year ago just because of age. New ones were tested recently, but they have nothing to do with the issue as they only come into operation at 0 deg temp.
Also have extra earth strap direct to starter mounting bolt.

Appreciate the input though.

gasman wrote:

Fair comment Richard.
Unfortunately that still makes no difference to the issue.
However I am fairly optimistic that a solution is not far away.
Awaiting some new diagnostic tools then possibly new parts.
Can't say anymore at the moment.

Thanks for taking the time to contribute though

ecu doctor plymouth,£48 roughly for a ecu check,£10 to post it back,can also repair.

Thanks for the interest everyone and apologies for not updating sooner but I wanted to be certain everything works.

The short answer to the problem was cranking speed, or lack of it. I have found it impossible to find out what the desired cranking speed is for this engine. Apparently JLR will not commit to what it should be, even to dealers.
As I also found out SDD is no help either.
I will get to the solution first.
Main battery earth to starter motor faulty, although looks good, at the time I did not know how to test it.
Upshot is the factory cable is rated at 170amps. A 2 Kw starter motor requires 166 amps to work correctly. That doesn't leave much room for errors.
I have replaced the factory cable with one rated at 240 amps and now the car starts almost immediately.
A bonus to this is that it has also fixed the non operation of the Stop Start system which came back to life immediately.
I still have a voltage drop on the positive cable which is slightly more than desired and I would like to upgrade that also. The positive cable is proving more difficult due to the connection at the battery end with the built-in fuse. I was hoping to get one from a breakers just for the connection and have a new cable made up. This however is proving difficult as the only ones available are stupid money.
Unless someone knows where I can purchase the fitting on its own.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Good news at last and it was something silly at the end of the day

@gasman - so glad you got it sorted.
Which cable did you replace ?
I put an extra earth from top of gearbox (a convenient threaded hole exits there)

Also had lots of issues starting the series 3. Had starter motor refurbed, checked all the wiring, battery changed. In the end a mate said make sure all the engine to chassis earth terminals are bright and shiny. They didnt look bad but were dull. Used a file and emery paper to clean the contact areas. Engine burst into life at first turn of the key, cranking at a much faster rate.

Just goes to show that when you need lots of amps you need low resistance because its only 12v. A simple testing circuit or multimeter won't find the fault as the circuit is intact. Jules

This thread highlights on big thing,
how easy it is to get lost in a maze of blind alleys,
I for one will now be cleaning the ground connectors more thoroughly,

Well done Gasman
I'm sure many would have given up by now,

PS..Did you have a second earth strap fitted before this issue? DAVE.

Back when I got mine, six years ago, I added an extra negative lead from the battery straight to the body of the starter.
I seem to remember it was a forum reccomended upgrade.

Thanks for all the encouragement.
The car had the original factory earth cable from the battery to the starter motor bolt at the top, 170 amps. It has failed somewhere inside the insulation. I also had another from the battery to the starter bottom bolt but not as big.
I have learned the hard way that you can test these cables.
Best done with the injectors unplugged to stop the engine from starting.

1. Amp clamp on the cable and crank the engine. This will tell you if the starter is receiving the required amperage.

2. Voltage drop test with a simple multimeter set for 12v DC.
Put the meter positive connection on the battery negative terminal and the meter negative probe one starter earth connection.
Get someone to crank the engine for you.
You should get less than 0.5v. Any more then you have an issue, seriousness depends on the reading. Higher the reading the greater the problem.

Just out of interest, the replacement 240amp cable made to the correct length was approx £9.

Just hope my pain will help others.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Glad you have sorted it out, hell of a journey and very disappointing that the garage you worked with did not know about the extra earth lead modification.... An expensive lesson they learned except it was it your cost I assume  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Hi Volrider
Thanks for the support.
The car did have the extra earth cable to the starter, mine was factory fitted. It was this that was at fault. Replaced it with a 240amp one, now fixed.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Great news Gasman, you’re nothing if not tenacious  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Hi Soul Fan

Appreciate the sentiment and you comments in the past.

Bit of an update.
As I have uprated the earth return, I wanted to do the same for the positive battery to starter and alternator but the inline fuse was a problem. However a solution has been supplied by another member, Luke from Ozz. He upgraded his cables and replaced the factory fuse with a one used by Volvo.
So today I have had a new 240 amp positive cable made and replaced the factory 150 amp in line fuse with a 200amp mega fuse off ebay.
Fitted this afternoon, what a difference to the starting
I know some will say it's overkill but the 2 Kw starter requires 166 amps!
Now I have plenty of spare in the cable.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.