I have a Freelander 2 diesel (2009).

After 4 years, the diagnostic device recorded again the following problems:
1)P02E5 Diesel intake air flow
1) Diesel intake air flow position sensor-circuit high (fault PO2E9-73)
2) Diesel intake air flow control stuck closed, check /clear throttle valve from obstruction/sticking (as a temporary fault PO2E5-71)
Does anyone know, what I should do (change the air flow or the electric throttle) and if this a serious fault that I should go ahead and repair it, or it is something that I can leave it for later when it gets worse.

Hi, just had the same error code(P02E5). How did you get on?

athens65 wrote:

I have a Freelander 2 diesel (2009).

After 4 years, the diagnostic device recorded again the following problems:
1)P02E5 Diesel intake air flow
1) Diesel intake air flow position sensor-circuit high (fault PO2E9-73)
2) Diesel intake air flow control stuck closed, check /clear throttle valve from obstruction/sticking (as a temporary fault PO2E5-71)
Does anyone know, what I should do (change the air flow or the electric throttle) and if this a serious fault that I should go ahead and repair it, or it is something that I can leave it for later when it gets worse.

Hello, may I ask a question? Two faults here, what I would do first as this could be a cable issue is to remove the air filter housing and to assist with the investigation also the headlight unit as to check the cabling in the lower section just under the air box, as I once had an issue there where the cables had rubbed through on the chassis with similar codes on my diagnostic tool, once sorted the problem never returned.
Just to assist really.

lowbrow wrote:

athens65 wrote:

I have a Freelander 2 diesel (2009).

After 4 years, the diagnostic device recorded again the following problems:
1)P02E5 Diesel intake air flow
1) Diesel intake air flow position sensor-circuit high (fault PO2E9-73)
2) Diesel intake air flow control stuck closed, check /clear throttle valve from obstruction/sticking (as a temporary fault PO2E5-71)
Does anyone know, what I should do (change the air flow or the electric throttle) and if this a serious fault that I should go ahead and repair it, or it is something that I can leave it for later when it gets worse.

Does your car shake on shut down?

I don’t know what your usual is, but by design It shouldn’t shake at all.

It may be that the plastic cogs in the throttle body have stripped so the butterfly isn’t closing on shutdown, it’s a common fault.

The unit is fairly easy to remove and then you can open it up for a look. If the cogs do turn out to be stripped all is not lost, there is a repair kit you can buy.

Could be a good place to start.

This fault first appeared several years ago. Then 3 years ago it appeared again and caused a REP signal. I eventualy changed the throttle body (butterfly) when I returned home from a trip.

lowbrow wrote:

I don’t know what your usual is, but by design It shouldn’t shake at all.

It may be that the plastic cogs in the throttle body have stripped so the butterfly isn’t closing on shutdown, it’s a common fault.

The unit is fairly easy to remove and then you can open it up for a look. If the cogs do turn out to be stripped all is not lost, there is a repair kit you can buy.

Could be a good place to start.

Here’s one repair option, if you’re not prepared to spend on a new throttle valve.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254231184504?fi...SwU9hc2oQi (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Woah, that repair kit is so cool. In contrary to replacing the throttle valve with new unit, this will fix the problem permanently.

Badger51 wrote:

Here’s one repair option, if you’re not prepared to spend on a new throttle valve.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254231184504?fi...SwU9hc2oQi

All looks a bit of a faff, just been to Euro Car Parts and pick up a new body - Pierburg make £120.

I’d be opening up the old unit and checking the cogs are worn to be sure that’s what’s causing your problem before you fit the new one, it more than likely is, but it’s worth checking.

Already changed, old unit had teeth missing. It no longer judders when I turn the engine off, also the ticking which has been happening has now stopped.

Good to hear!

Definitely feels a lot more polite on shutdown with it working as it should.

Just trying to work out if I need to calibrate it now?