Hi gents, I’ve currently got the car up on ramps and my fuel tank sat in front of me on a bench in the garage, so I’m assuming that’s the hard bit out of the way!

I’ve opened up the tank and snipped the connectors only to find the wires are stainless, so need crimping. Land Rover were kind enough to supply me with (what he thinks are) the pink connectors from technical bulletin LTB00566v6 but I’m apprehensive, I’d have thought they’d need insulating with heat shrink or similar? To be fair such a measure isn’t included in the bulletin so maybe unnecessary any heat shrink large enough to fit over the crimp wouldn’t shrink to small enough to make a seal around the wire anyway.. what are your thoughts?

Now I know what a ball ache dropping the tank is it’s not something I would care to repeat any time in the near future, so I want any repair I make to work and to carry on working! I’m bricking it that I’ll get it all back together and the problem will remain, like it’ll turn out it was the sender pump all along..

Is there a way to check the pump functions as it should now I have everything disassembled?

Also, does anyone want any pics of anything specific while I have it all apart?

Cheers

Just wondering is it necessary to remove the tank to carry out LTB00566v6

In the case of a Freelander 2, unfortunately yes, the access hatch under the seat is too small to be able to get at the locking ring. It was quite an experience dropping the tank, not massively difficult, just rather time consuming!

I’m going to take off and service the haldex tomorrow so I’ve a little while to figure out how best to connect the sender wires, any and all suggestions welcome!

Is it possible to make the floor access hole larger to do the job in hand. Jules

I suppose if you’re willing to cut a large enough hole in your car it could be, though I imagine it’d be a bit of a sod trying to find a plug to fit the larger aperture, the main problem I see with attempting that is access to the locking ring is also obscured by a fairly large lump of polystyrene that wraps around that corner of the tank, cushioning it from the body of the car.

Even if these problems didn’t exist access into the tank would still be very limited from within the car, even with the tank on the bench in front of me I was up to my shoulder reaching into the far side to access the other sender.

lowbrow wrote:

In the case of a Freelander 2, unfortunately yes, the access hatch under the seat is too small to be able to get at the locking ring. It was quite an experience dropping the tank, not massively difficult, just rather time consuming!

I’m going to take off and service the haldex tomorrow so I’ve a little while to figure out how best to connect the sender wires, any and all suggestions welcome!

I read most of the literature on here relating to the subject and I encountered your contribution to the conversations along the way..

If it can be done that way, that’s great and I applaud the ingenuity of those doing so. The thing is there’s nobody commenting and recommending doing it that way that have actually done the job themselves, somebody we could go to for Q & A on the subject. Having never done this kind of work before I thought it wise to follow the fantastic walk through guides on here.

That’s why I’ve dropped the tank.

I’m not saying it absolutely can not be done, I’d actually love to see it

I suppose that’s why the main dealers charge an arm and a leg , do it the easy way, then charge for doing it by the manual. Much the same as when I went to college, and then started at a local firm , forget all that crap you were told , this is the real world, do it this way, time is money!
I suppose when you think about it , the sender unit must get in the tank at the factory this way!!!???

I’m fairly certain that any components that belong inside the fuel tank would be installed before it is fitted to the vehicle.

Sure, but I didn’t mean that. What I meant is if dropping the tank a bit allows the lid to be removed, it’s the same as fitting the sender unit in the factory, sorry if I wasn’t clear as to my meaning.

Wow, well done you.

My mechanic had to do this job to replace the pump, he had fantasized about getting my permission to cut a hole in the floor to get access. I wish he had.

I'm with you, if you can't be sure it is the sender then the worry is that it's actually the pump. Are you able to recall the error code? Mine was about fuel authorisation or some such wording.

Perhaps putting a new pump in would be worthwhile? (I don't like paying for a new part that may not be needed either, but given the pain ...)

Keep it up. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Good morning Jeff and thank you for the encouraging words, this is is day 4 of the car being up in the air as I’m having to do it in between other things, I’m pretty sure the the Mrs thinks I’ve gone mad!

The fault codes that showed relating to the fuel system are:

P0460
- Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit
- Intermittent

P1346
- Fuel level sensor B; circuit malfunction
- Intermittent

Ok, I’ve spliced the wires using 2x part LR050538, the ones listed in the official LR fix, haven’t bothered going OTT with heat shrink as the connector it’s replacing wasn’t insulated in the first place. Upon checking the resistance both senders are reading fine. I’ve also put 12v through the in tank pump and that’s doing it’s job too.

I’ve stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt the Haldex and everything is almost ready to go back together but I want to clean up the haldex to diff O -ring mating surfaces as they’re looking well rough and covered in a hard yellow build up in places, does anyone have any suggestions on how this can be done without damaging the aluminium O-ring groove?

Hi
I have just had my one done by my local fitter, I said to him to cut a hole under the seat and he agreed but when he went to do it he said it was impossible as the angle under the seat made it impossible he was annoyed as that would have been easier for him so he had to do the long route.
He is a very good fitter and worked on many Freelanders but he cursed land rover on such a stupid design.

They certainly don’t like to make things easy for us!