Hi All,
At the weekend we had to have our 2010 FL2 (95k miles on the clock) recovered as it was undrivable due to horrendous clunking noise from front right CV joint (probably!). Mobile mechanic fitted a new CV joint/drive shaft today and horrendous clunking noise disappeared. However, I now have a much less horrendous clunking noise coming seemingly from the rear left.

Having read more than a few threads on here about CV joints, PTUs, diffs etc I am feeling a bit bewildered about my next move. Could it be that both CV joints have coincidentally expired at the same time or is there likely to be a more sinister root cause? As a very amateur mechanic, which things should I be able to check for and diagnose? And in what order should I start my investigations? Pull the Haldex fuse first?

It's sod's law that this has kicked off as we were just about to sell it and look for a newer FL2 or Disco Sport.

Cheers.

All the CVs would have done the same miles and had the same wear and tear so it possible they are all going fail at similar times. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

But unlikely to do so, hell of a coincidence if they did. Remove the haldex fuse to rule it out of the equation. The rear driveshafts and joints will naturally still be turning, but not transmitting drive with it removed. Drive line noises can often be misleading as to their origin. Hopefully you get sorted with minimal inconvenience and financial pain. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

95k miles is nothing, I'd expect to see CV joints do double that or more without an issue, as long as the boots have remained intact.

It could be that some issue with the Haldex is causing accelerated CV joint wear. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Mmm, sounds a bit like it might be the PTU..
When mine went I also believed the noise was coming from the rear...

Thanks for the advice. I'll try pulling the Haldex fuse first and see what happens. I'm really, really hoping that the problem isn't major.

When the mechanic removed the front drive shaft I had a look at it and the boots appeared to be intact and the joint felt smooth (though I appreciate that under load it might be a different story).

I'm booked in at the garage for them to take a look at it today so fingers crossed for a good outcome

*UPDATE*

Turned out to be the rear diff that's shot. At the garage they jacked it up and rotated the rear wheels, there was a grinding noise from the diff and it was clear to see the driveshafts vibrating and moving about at the crunchy points in the rotation.

Booked it in with local independant LR specialist - about £800 all in, including a new Haldex filter (as I guess it's never been changed it seems like a good time to do it) which I didn't think was too extortionate.

Thanks again for the advice everyone.

** Further update **

I took the car to the local LR specialist for a replacement diff to be fitted and to have the remaining bits of the 10 year service done (Haldex, auto transmission oil, diff oil, PTU oil). They put their listening device on the diff and declared it to be OK . I was so happy... until he said it was the PTU that was shot to pieces and wasn't transferring any power to the rear wheels, the worst he'd ever seen! It was so far gone that I wouldn't even get the exchange value knocked off the bill .

They fitted the new PTU and with the new quiet running drivetrain they picked up another anomaly and subsequently diagnosed a knackered wheel bearing too!

The good news is that the car runs so sweetly now. The low-revs judder from the auto box has gone, the grinding noises are definitely gone, 4wd has been restored and the car now averages another 5-10 mpgs. The bad news, with all this work and the recent timing belt change etc I'm in for over £2k all up

Do you know if the haldex pump mesh screen was cleaned when they changed the haldex filter ? Jules

I'm suspicious about not getting an exchange for the PTU. It's the reconditioner that decides if it's too far gone, not the garage fitting it.

Bell Engineering would be the people to get a PTU from. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.