Freel2,

Let me know if I am missing something.

I have been getting random false alarms and based on what I found here the most likely reason is the switch for the bonnet latch.

I decided to bypass the switch and see if I get any more false alarms.

I happened to have a small module that plugs into the ODB2 port that I needed to recycle and instead of recycling the obsolete module I decide to harvest the pins from it.

I removed the lower pins but this picture gives you an idea of what the part looked like before removal





Using the harvested pins I did the following

1. I soldered them together

2. I held the part in a small silicone cap and I filled the cap with epoxy so that only the end of the pins are exposed

Here is the picture of the part after the epoxy cured





Now for the question.


Should this be a short term solution?

or

Should this be the permanent solution?


I do understand that the bonnet could be in the partially unlatched position and that the ECU will not warn the user of the fault. However this was true of every car that I owned before my 2003 Merc. So I am ok with taking on this risk. For me personally I worry more that my wheel nuts are not torqued properly and the ECU doesn't warn me about that.

Thanks

Paul

PS if someone argues that the latch is inexpensive and can be easily replace I could be convinced if they post a link to a procedure. Without picture and a good description I will likely ignore the advice.

Simply bypass the switch which is behind the headlamp with a paper clip far easier

“Simply bypass the switch which is behind the headlamp with a paper clip far easier”

Not quite as professional though.  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

That’s how my Land Rover main dealer fixed mine always makes me laugh when owners boast their cars have (full Main dealer service history ) 😂😂😂

Badger51 wrote:

“Simply bypass the switch which is behind the headlamp with a paper clip far easier”

Not quite as professional though.

Ah, but the secret is not to use a plastic one.  DAVE.

IIRC, the original switch that became faulty was a separate part and could be unplugged from both the loom and the bonnet latch. It has now been superceded by an all in one part that incorporates the switch and latch, which means you need to disconnect the bonnet release cable and original latch in order to fit the new one.
I just plugged the new part in and cable tied it below the original. No false alarms.

Excellent Feedback!!!!

Thanks all

I will be leaving the bypass in place long term.