Hello fellow Freelander owners!

I saw a few posts about this but for peace of mind I would like to go into my exact issues, this is over a few months so bear with me if I'm all over the place

Today I went out in my Freelander with 223K Miles, well serviced, In for an mot soon, and on the way back home I stopped by to put a bottle of DPF cleaner on my tank, It is supposed to be put in with about 40 Litres of fuel and I had about 50, or just under a full 60 litre tank.

after 15 minutes of driving back I was going up a hill and felt the car was just steadily increasing in RPMs but no shifting up (automatic) and along with that there was a lot of black smoke coming out the back, and got the other drivers rather upset.
It sounded faster and louder than usual but felt slower than usual, I thought it's just the cleaner doing it's job and cleaning the car out but it definitely felt wrong.

When I got back I plugged in the OBD2 and got P0229 "Supercharger/Turbocharger Under boost condition"
I gave it a few good revs to check it wasn't limping, and very little smoke came out compared to when out driving.
Now I don't know if I had this code before or it just popped up because I had the same issue a few months back but that time my car went into " Limp" mode, I took it to a garage and got quoted for a new turbo, we couldn't afford it and were sure it was less than that, so we ignored it and instead kept removing the code (I don't remember what it was but something to do with the turbo making it go into limp mode) and just kept driving, for the next 2 months it would be completely fine with no issues until today when I put that DPF Cleaner in.

Now it might be just cleaning the car out and the whole issue is a coincidence but I know there is a code, don't know if it just popped up or was there long term, so I don't know what path to take, whether I will have to spend loads or not.

I know the turbo worked a few times when I heard it flutter, but only at a slow speed on one corner that we slowed down for and sped up a little.

I could of missed some things as there was a lot to cover but any help would be appreciated.

Alex.

could be sticking turbo vanes,mine did that,but my pipe to the throttle body had a small split,Did the gge do an inspection?

I don’t believe UK models had a DPF until the facelift in 2010?
Clear the fault and drive a few miles and re scan for codes.

From the forum mostly split air pipes cause the code that you are getting.

A 2007 Freelander doesn't have a DPF, so there's no point in wasting money on DPF cleaner.

Even if it did have a DPF, DPF cleaner is pure snake oil, and not worth using. The ECM knows when the DPF needs cleaning, and instructs the driver accordingly.

You're best bet is to make sure the turbo vanes are free, as suggested above. And check all the boost pipes carefully for splits and leaks at the clamps.
 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Oops, thought it was doing it good, not the first I used it either , no side effects if it doesn't have a dpf?

Also how could one go about checking the vanes?

And a few updates:
Engine light came on when we went out again, my son read the codes while we were driving and the P0299 code which was "Pending" before was now "Confirmed", he cleared the codes and the light sure enough went off but that's it, the code came back pending minutes later, and came back confirmed + engine light on my way back home.

I can definitely feel a lack of power, like it's struggling and going up in revs ever so slowly (completely fine when idle revving, no smoke), and also the smoke only comes under load so definitely something with the turbo, could be the vanes or anything going there, just need to know how to inspect them.

See poor performance when hot couple of weeks ago, then Badger51 post with a link my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Get under the car, disconnect the turbo actuator arm from the electronic motor by removing the small 'c' clip. Try not to lose the clip. Once removed you should be able to move the actuator arm up and down without any resistance. This will tell you if the variable geometry ring inside the turbo is sticking. If it is sticking you could get codes for over boost or under boost, depending on what position the ring was when it stuck. This is due to carbon build up or rust within that part of the turbo. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

@Alex How good are you at automotive DIY ?
Do you have the freebie JLR workshop manual (dpf file)?
I ask because all the info you need is contained within it (examples below) - Haynes is not worth the poor paper its printed on these days.
To inspect all the turbo hoses and vanes you will need to get under car and remove the undertray.

CAUTION do not move the turbo vanes before disconnecting the actuator arm from the electronic controller.

Click image to enlarge

on my list of extras for my old 2007 hse,dpf was an option at £750,thankfully the po declined !

I had a similar problem to this a couple of years ago. When I checked underneath I found that the circlip was missing and the actuator arm was just flapping around. I checked it was all still free to move, applied some high temperature ceramic grease and re-assembled with a new circlip. It has been fine since (touch wood) so it is certainly worth checking under there.