Do it!
Watch a few YouTube guides, read the haynes manual, take your time.

Best if you have no deadline and can complete it at your leisure. I had to borrow sons car to nip to motor factors to buy a decent 6 sided impact socket for the crank pulley bolt as the standard 12 point socket wasn't up to the job.

You'll need the flywheel and camshaft locking pins although suitably sized drill bits inserted into the locking holes will do the same job.
Starter motor is a bit of a fiddle to remove.

Tip: mark the old belt and a couple of teeth on the crank and cam pulleys with paint. Transfer the paint marks onto the same teeth on the new belt and fit it onto the marked pulley teeth.

Putting mine back together I couldn't for the life of me figure out the route of the auxiliary belt around the alternator and ac pump etc. Swore at it, left it overnight, posted on here for advice. Received advice, had another go next morning and sorted within 5 minutes 😁

Take plenty of coffee breaks. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

If I was to do that it would be out of mot before I managed to finish it. 🤣

Well that would give you two years then

Everything on order so a job for the weekend maybe. One thing I have noted reading how to do it watching the videos etc is it seems fairly straighforward. Not done a cambelt in years , well many years. I was always told recheck the tensioner after a few hundred miles. Never seems to get mentioned in these FL 2 belt changes.

It's buried away behind covers so you'd have to do a certain amount of dismantling to get at it again. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I will do it with the intention of checking it again, but will probably forget to do it.

Bogart wrote:

Everything on order so a job for the weekend maybe. One thing I have noted reading how to do it watching the videos etc is it seems fairly straighforward. Not done a cambelt in years , well many years. I was always told recheck the tensioner after a few hundred miles. Never seems to get mentioned in these FL 2 belt changes.

150k in dream land

The belt will outlast the 150k change interval by a considerable margin. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I changed mine ( TD 4 ) at just over 150k and it had no visible signs of wear, cracking etc.

It's a gamble, I'd not rest past 80k. Older diesels used to be 50k change intervals. . Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I bought the car at 10 years old with just over 150k and did the 10 year service as prescribed by landrover. The great price I bought the car at reflected the sizeable chunk of change it would cost to pay a garage to do the work ....... Lucky I can do it myself 😁

Nodge68 wrote:

The belt will outlast the 150k change interval by a considerable margin.

The problem with cambelts is that if everything is normal they don't show any signs of wear, it's all internal, then one day they say sod it and leave you with a rather large bill and in the cases of older cars no car. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

I replaced the Cambelt stuff and Auxillary stuff on all my previous cars different makes at 60,000 miles. Also do the front oil seals since I am there anyway.

Didn't know until recently, when the belts go it's the teeth that break off.

Auto box fluid and PTU at 24,000 ml
Haldex and Diff the same but done by Bell
Engine Oil and filter at 6,000 miles.


Old school DIY.