Technically this isn't the Freelander but it is probably the freelanders fault!

Anyway the vehicle that the Freelander replaced which I should have sold by now but I keep keeping so that we aren't a vehicle down when the Freelander needs repairing now has an issue.

I was trying to use it twice a week to keep it running well, but due to work I missed using it one week and then the battery was flat.

I used my little portable jump pack and it started straight up. Took it for a few miles drive, switched off and it was instantly flat. Didn't have time to look at it so left it for a couple of weeks. Had a look today, put the keys in, lights came on, on the dash but not even a click. Again the little noco jump pack started it instantly. I was doing some jobs around it, so left it running on the drive for half an hour or so. Turned the keys off, turned them back on again and not even a light on, on the dash nothing at all.

Connected the noco again and it jumped straight up, left it running for a few minutes whilst I went on the hunt for my multimeter. With the engine running the voltage showed as 11.9V which is obviously rather low.

Left it a bit longer and checked again, 11.9V again.

Switched off, and connected the mains battery charger. Started off at 11.9V after a couple of minutes was at 12.7V.


So the battery seems to be able to go higher than 11.9V, so is the alternator kapput? There was no warning lights on the dash etc.


I've left it charging now and I guess part of the proof will be if the battery holds the voltage after charging.


I suspect the battery is toast, but just wanted to make sure the alternator wasn't the issue first.

Logic says that if the 10A charger can raise the batteries voltage but a 60-150A alternator can't then the alternator or the wiring to it is stuffed.

Doesn't mean that leaving the battery discharged for a couple of weeks hasn't done it damage. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Strangely there is very little to drain the battery too.

It is an old vehicle so has an early ECU but nothing as per hungry as the modern cars have.

I do suspect that the aftermarket alarm may have malfunctioned though. I have now removed the sensors so it just operates as remote central locking.

I checked it before going to bed.

With the charger it was 13.7V

I disconnected the charger and checked again after a minute or so and it was 12.7V. I didn't try starting as it was too late. Will check again tonight.

But yes my logic was thinking the same about the alternator. I would have expected it to have been able to charge it. I need to know it will reliably restart as it is very nearly out of fuel. I need to get the 2 miles to the fuel station and switch off knowing it will start again!

I believe that similar post of poor charging have been solved by looking at the blue wire, see posts in link

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37608.html?highlight=blue+wire FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

How old is the battery?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery, charging it, then check the voltage 24 hours later, or at least 12 hours later? Checking the voltage just after charging is meaningless. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18