Hi All. This is the first time I have asked a question on here. I am new to all this.
I have a 07 Freelander 2. I have had the turbo replaced and 3 actuators and still I have this 2562 fault code
Any ideas as to where I look next. The mechanic said next step is to replace ECU. After spending lots of $$$
to still have the same issue I have decided I will try and solve the issue myself. Any Help would be much appreciated.
Thanks In advance Sifumac

Have you done a search on here

Hi I like chips. Yes I have looked on here and I am still looking but have not found a solution as yes.

This fault normally occurs when the variable geometry part of the turbo sticks due to carbon build up on the actuator ring. I know you said you have had the turbo replaced but I would still check it.
If you disconnect the actuator linkage from the actuator motor ( small C clip) you should be able to move the linkage up and down without any resistance, this will move the vane's within the turbo.
If nothing else it will help rule this issue out. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Did the "Mechanic" reset the fault codes after replacing the Turbo? I bet not, as one has to reset the limit parameters on Autologic after fitting a new Turbo. The Turbo should have had a new actuator already fitted, do not reuse the old one by just replacing the fan cassette.

secondhand turbo and new actuators.

gasman wrote:

This fault normally occurs when the variable geometry part of the turbo sticks due to carbon build up on the actuator ring. I know you said you have had the turbo replaced but I would still check it.
If you disconnect the actuator linkage from the actuator motor ( small C clip) you should be able to move the linkage up and down without any resistance, this will move the vane's within the turbo.
If nothing else it will help rule this issue out.

Jagracer wrote:

Did the "Mechanic" reset the fault codes after replacing the Turbo? I bet not, as one has to reset the limit parameters on Autologic after fitting a new Turbo. The Turbo should have had a new actuator already fitted, do not reuse the old one by just replacing the fan cassette.

New oil in a Diesel engine does get dirty very quickly and would also depend on how the oil was removed (drained from the sump or sucked out through the dipstick tube, just run hot engine or cold and stood) and if the filter, which is a pain to get to, was actually changed. When you say only half full, do you mean half way up the dipstick? If so, that is where it is supposed to be. If he’d only put in 3 litres of oil it wouldn’t even show on the dipstick.

The car was driven 5 kms from workshop to home. oil level was halfway between full and empty

Why not put new oil in the engine, then you know it is fresh oil, nine litres of Ford spec synthetic 5w-30 oil. Put in 8.5 ltres, the rest is for top-ups. Check that the link rod on the turbo is fitted, I found it was hanging on ours when it came up with boost pressure fault codes. The car only has one Actuator, why three new ones?

I think 8.5 l is waaaayyyyyy too much, around 6 l is about right, imho........

Jagracer wrote:

Why not put new oil in the engine, then you know it is fresh oil, nine litres of Ford spec synthetic 5w-30 oil. Put in 8.5 ltres, the rest is for top-ups.

How on earth did you come up with that figure?  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Jagracer wrote:

Why not put new oil in the engine, then you know it is fresh oil, nine litres of Ford spec synthetic 5w-30 oil. Put in 8.5 ltres, the rest is for top-ups. Check that the link rod on the turbo is fitted, I found it was hanging on ours when it came up with boost pressure fault codes. The car only has one Actuator, why three new ones?

5k is more than enough for the new oil to be coloured black by the residual oil left after draining. The dipstick doesn’t reach to the bottom of the sump, it just shows the usable level and if it was showing half way between top and bottom marks is just about spot on.