Fixing the lock (new module) fixed my issues at a stroke. I think the door locks must signal 'job complete' which allows the car to go to sleep or to properly wake up… whether or not the lock continues to draw on the battery in repeated or even continuous attempt/s to reach 'job complete' I don't know. Too technical for me. I only discovered the door lock problem (front passenger) when the wife got in the car before I’d unlocked it.

....thing is.....i've done a parasitic drain test which revealed no drain...so when the car is locked single or double locked....once the car has gone through it's locking procedure and checks the drain reduces right down to 0.01a which I assume is the alarm system working.

So i guess if it was the lock draining the battery it would show up with a parasitic drain no?

However, now I recall, doing the parasitic drain without locking the car did show a .48a drain which I couldn't get rid of. One time accidently I left the car unlocked with the front passenger door open! ha! but all the internal lights were switched off but still the battery was really low in the morning. Not dead, but very low from fully charged.

Looks like a trip on a flat bed to the garage now but spoke with a guy at landrover who immediately said I need to order a new steering lock but if the voltage to the lock is only 3.7v then surely this is the problem not the lock?

As I say, too technical for me. I didn’t do any testing or measuring


i’d start the car (low battery /transmission fault)… drive it say, ten miles into town. When I came back - no low battery warning but still with transmission fault, start up, drive home, park up and ‘lock the car’.

Next day - groundhog day. Some mornings, a jump start was needed. New lock fitted and problem permanently gone. I think it was research on here that led to the defective lock being the cause of it.


I have since bought a new battery, a Ctek MXS 5 with a couple of accessories and an iCarsoft V3 in case it goes wrong again. I'll get some value out of them one day