Nbuuifx wrote:

I would recommend pulling the fuse over unplugging the unit. The fuse is easy to get at and quick to replace. The plug is fragile and easily broken and you have to lie on the floor to get to it.

We drove off around for a month or two with it unplugged. I read somewhere that officially the Haldex manual day not to drive above 30mph with it not operating but plenty of people have run them about for much longer.

Oddly having ours unplugged for a couple of months seems to have cured it. I've got a service kit ready to service it but we've been driving around for about a month now with no Haldex issues.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

I would be so happy if leaving it unplugged for a while does cure it as every fix seems to cost a fortune on a freelander.

MotionInc wrote:

Might also help to update you vehicle profile in under 'profile', but yes, it's definitely the haldex that's doing it.

I have it all filled out and saved so I have no idea why it's not showing in my profile

tenet wrote:

Surely Dean has a case to raise with the supplying dealer as they "recently" serviced the Haldex.

It will be raised once I can be 100% sure it is the Haldex as I've also been advised that it could also be the PTU. Hopefully my partner will tell me tonight that the rear skip has stopped now the Haldex fuse is pulled and we will know the Haldex is at fault. If she says it's still there and I also notice it tomorrow then it's 50/50 weather it's the Haldex or PTU or both knowing my luck.

If the fault is still there then you can be nearly certain that it isn't the Haldex unit as it will be disengaged.

"can be nearly certain"

I'm lead to believe that sometimes the haldex doesnt fully disengage.

Apart from the haldex I dont know what else would cause transmission wind up in a FL2. Jules

So was the problem still there with the Haldex fuse out?

So far the verdict is that my partner doesn't think it was scrabbling at the back but her journey to and from work isn't the most conclusive. Hopefully now that I've got the car I'll get a good idea if it has gone or not.

I took it out for a very quick drive and taking out the fuse seems to have stopped the locked diff sensation I was having. It will be interesting as the days go on if it comes back while the fuse is out.

I had similar symptoms about a year after the rear diff had been replaced.

Turns out the dealer either didn't replace an o-ring with new (or they damaged it on installation) which allowed the haldex fluid to leak out (very slowly in my case, never saw anything on the driveway).

Similar timing in your case, if that's what happened the solution is to remove the haldex, replace the relevant seal(s) and refill it. Mine was apparently not damaged and has been fine for many years since.

Might be warranty from whoever replaced the diff, was in my case. If you have to DIY, still cheap and relatively easy.

I had the same problem on our Blue 2009 FL2. It required a new rear diff, Haldex unit, and the front Bevel box had stripped teeth. I had a seized Handbrake some time ago, so that was suggested was the start of trouble. £1800 worth of work.

was £1800 the total price or just the labour? Jules

Just to finish off this thread from my perspective. My issue was a faulty Haldex, the lovely people from FreelanderSpecialist.com have swapped my faulty one out for a working unit and it's nice to be back in 4WD.

Excellent news!!

Dean1234 wrote:

Just to finish off this thread from my perspective. My issue was a faulty Haldex, the lovely people from FreelanderSpecialist.com have swapped my faulty one out for a working unit and it's nice to be back in 4WD.