Hello,
My daughter drives a 2009 LR2 (in USA) and having some issues all of a sudden where the key fob won't eject from the dash. Upon insertion, it is sucked into it's normal spot without issue, but when trying to turn the ignition off by ejecting the fob, nothing happens, it just stays in and the ignition stays on.

I did some searching around on here and elsewhere on the internet and didn't find much of a solution, only that others have had similar problems.

Does anyone happen to know of a potential fix for this?

Surely you turn the ignition off first by pressing the stop/start button, before you try ejecting the fob? We need more precise info before making other suggestions. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
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Yes, you are correct. Engine is already off by pressing the stop/start button then normally push the fob inward toward the dash to allow it to eject itself.

I shouldn't have thought that part would be assumed by anyone. It's difficult to troubleshoot when you don't have all of the details (I know how that goes myself).

Is this happening with just one key or both?

Over time the rubber casing tends to swell. It's more common where the user might have oily hands (from hand creams etc, or from working on the car and handling the key). They go in ok, but tend to fail to release.

Get the spare key out and see if that does it too.

If that is what seems to be happening, the best bet is to get the key reshelled, and get a new battery soldered in at the same time. They are sealed at factory, so find an online refurb - typically in the UK this costs around £50 - one of our site members offers this service in the UK. Should be able to find something similar your side of the pond?

If the key is now smooth and a little puffy with no visible markings, as opposed to looking like this, then that's where I would start.

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This is good to know. The rubber around the key is a little puffy but it does happen with both keys (primary and spare).

When the key is forced pulled out, the car still thinks the key is in so it seems like something in the receiver is stuck and not releasing.

Just to be sure, the transmission is in Park? The key won't come out otherwise.

NoDo$h wrote:

Is this happening with just one key or both?

Over time the rubber casing tends to swell. It's more common where the user might have oily hands (from hand creams etc, or from working on the car and handling the key). They go in ok, but tend to fail to release.

Get the spare key out and see if that does it too.

If that is what seems to be happening, the best bet is to get the key reshelled, and get a new battery soldered in at the same time. They are sealed at factory, so find an online refurb - typically in the UK this costs around £50 - one of our site members offers this service in the UK. Should be able to find something similar your side of the pond?

If the key is now smooth and a little puffy with no visible markings, as opposed to looking like this, then that's where I would start.

Do you find these casings on eBay?

I found this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/112651334711?fits...SwyP5aFgJk, is this like what you were talking about? [/url]

merlinj79 wrote:

Just to be sure, the transmission is in Park? The key won't come out otherwise.

I ended up ordering one of the shells and will try installing that to see if it helps. The trouble is, I won't be there until a couple of weeks from now. I will post an update after I've tried and hopefully have it working properly again

I had two key rebuilds before I sold the FL2 . Obviously these key components are reverse engineered in China . One worked just fine , as good as the factory unit . One was oversized and actually jammed . Side by side you could see that one unit was noticeably thicker . I suspect some of the cases may be copies of copies and have lost the original tolerances . 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

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Quote:

Side by side you could see that one unit was noticeably thicker . I suspect some of the cases may be copies of copies and have lost the original tolerances .

Doubt it.

Pretty sure the FOB is programmed to the vehicle computer, not to the receiver. In fact the receiver itself probably needs to be programmed to the vehicle before it will work.

You could get the SDD software and possibly do it all yourself.

Might be worth taking the receiver out and seeing if you can take it apart and un-jam it.

Pulling the fob out will damage the eject mechanism, in the same way pulling a CD drive door out the PC would damage the CD drive.

The key, dock, and vehicle are all programmed together, so need LR diagnostic equipment to do it. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
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merlinj79 wrote:

Might be worth taking the receiver out and seeing if you can take it apart and un-jam it.