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garryw



Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: KZN
Posts: 21

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Alaska White
Intermittent Crankshaft P0336 after changing engine mounts

Last week I changed my upper and lower engine mounts on my 2008 TD4.

The test drive afterwards ran perfectly, but the next day while reaching about 80kph / 50mph I got some violent lurching and jerking and the engine sounded like it was going to die. I released the throttle and it recovered, but occurred a few more times before getting home. The engine never cut out and recovered each time.

Diagnostics shows error code P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor, so I got a genuine replacement sensor and put it in.

The vehicle is still doing the same thing - it starts and runs perfectly at lower speeds, but as soon as I reach higher speeds it misfires and hesitates, then recovers, with the same P0336 error code coming up.

I'm certain that while replacing the engine mounts I didn't go anywhere near the CPS and it's wiring was not pinched or caught anywhere, so I'm thinking it's just a coincidence that this started the day after I changed the mounts.

What could be causing this, specifically only at higher speeds? Could it be that the wiring from the ECM to the CPS is going dodgy and the connection between the two is intermittently failing, as I have read on other posts in this forum?

How likely is it that it's the trigger wheel on the crankshaft that's failing, has anyone experienced this? or any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Post #417675 27th Jan 2022 7:14 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Why did you replace the mounts?

It's been found that some wiring on the crank position sensor can fail. Maybe your failing mounts allowed faulty wiring to stay in contact, but now the engine has moved slightly, the wiring is now failing? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #417735 27th Jan 2022 8:26 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Can you get hold of a known good sensor to try on the car.

It's known that even new sensors can fail, happened to me. I thought I would replace the existing sensor with a new one as part of a service around the time I replaced the belts.

Ended up having to put the old one back in

Post #417737 27th Jan 2022 8:39 pm
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garryw



Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: KZN
Posts: 21

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Alaska White

Nodge68 wrote:
Why did you replace the mounts?

It's been found that some wiring on the crank position sensor can fail. Maybe your failing mounts allowed faulty wiring to stay in contact, but now the engine has moved slightly, the wiring is now failing?


The old mounts were worn, particularly the upper mount which had collapsed and caused the engine to sit about half an inch lower than it should be. Yes, that is also what I thought - perhaps a short in the harness which has become worse with the new position of the engine...

Post #417746 28th Jan 2022 5:32 am
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garryw



Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: KZN
Posts: 21

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Alaska White

I Like Chips wrote:
Can you get hold of a known good sensor to try on the car.

It's known that even new sensors can fail, happened to me. I thought I would replace the existing sensor with a new one as part of a service around the time I replaced the belts.

Ended up having to put the old one back in


Thanks, I will try that before digging deeper. I'll report back what I find if I manage to sort it out!

Post #417747 28th Jan 2022 5:33 am
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garryw



Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: KZN
Posts: 21

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Alaska White

Just an update on this - took the vehicle in to an auto electrician, it was indeed dodgy wiring in both the crankshaft sensor plug and further up the wiring from the sensor where it joins the harness to the turbo solonoid. All repaired and running again!

This is a pic the auto elec sent me. He said he un-taped the wires and just gave them gentle pull and this is what happened, so it was holding on by just a few copper strands Shocked


Post #418051 3rd Feb 2022 3:02 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Nice easy fix

Post #418068 3rd Feb 2022 10:05 pm
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