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jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Door latch repair inc door handle removal

My driver's door lock failed. Vast majority of the time this is due the a latch motor failure not cable issues.

I've just replaced the motors in the driver's door latch which requires removal of the door card, speaker, door control module, window regulator/motor, door handle and finally the latch itself.
I found Haynes no use at all. The JLR manual doesn't cover the finer details and jumps between sections. Removal of the door handle is not covered in any detail.
The PowerfulUK video gives you most of the info you need.

Powerful don't open up the latch however, and also the drivers door is more awkward due to the latch position in relation to the door handle.

(You can just about do it without taking the door handle off but then you are likely to break the cables on the latch as this chap did...
)

PowerfulUK explain why you are better taking the handle off and I'm grateful for their video about that .

So I thought I'd include a quick guide and a few tips.

1- Drop the window about 6cm (so you can push it up out of the clips later)
2- Remove the door card. Remove the Philips screws first then use good quality trim tools. The trim clips can rip out of the plastic door card, so proceed gently . Mine were cheap plastic ones and bent against the strain of levering the white clips out of the door. It was more like getting a tight clincher bike tyre of a rim.

The door card hand hold cover has a slot at the bottom to get you started.

The longer screw, behind the latch/lock levers, is under a cover.

Unplug the window switches., as you lift up the door card - its not on a long wire.
The latch cable is held in a retainer which is removed from the mechanism by pressing a clip. It wasn't obvious from the JLR manual how to do this.

3- Unplug the speaker & window regulator.

4- Unscrew door control module and support bracket nearby.

5- Unscrew & remove speaker - noting the two plastic locating pegs

6- The glass pane has a hole at each side

which locate into two sliding clips on the regulator.

As you need some space for the glass to be pushed upwards out of the clips, I started be lowering the window about 6cm. Pass your hand though the speaker hole and spring the white plastic clips outwards to release the glass at each side.

Push the glass up to the top of the door frame and tape in position to secure it firmly.

Click image to enlarge

7- Unbolt the regulator and turn it 90 degrees to give access to the handle and latch.

8- Unplug the latch and move cable out of the way

9- Unscrew latch and let it drop down inside the door hanging on its cables

10- The small external end of handle is held in by two internal clips which are hard to see and easily broken.

(as seen from inside the door)

Use a long thin flat blade screw driver to gently push the clips inwards.

and wiggle the handle on the outside - pulling at the same time.

11- Slide the handle itself backwards in the closed position and then open to remove from the door.

Click image to enlarge

12- Remove the rubber seals and remove the external Torx screw.

Click image to enlarge

13- Under the seal is a plastic T (which stops the handle sliding), held by internal Torx screw. Unscrew & remove the T.

Internal part of the handle can to slid forward and removed inside the door.
Feed the long cable to the inside of the door. Then remove handle, latch and 2 cables as one unit.

Click image to enlarge

14- Remove the cables from latch. A small flat bladed screwdriver releases the plastic clips and the metal cable ends can then be rotated and removed.

15- Remove single large Torx screw & plastic "shroud" - nothing drops out yet.
(some pics have cables still attached because they were taken out of sequence)

16- Remove 2 mid-sized Torx screws. Note position of the levers and 2 springs. Small "copper" spring will fall out as as latch separated - don't loose it !! Big spring will stay put.

17- Turn over, lift up plastic lever (squeeze central pin) and remove 4 small Torx screws (seen above).

Click image to enlarge

18- Cover can now be lifted upwards and off. Remove plastic toothed slide from small motor (dont loose the small black plastic part)

19- Both motors are levered up from their contacts. New motors simply pushed down onto the contacts.

Reassemble everything in reverse order.
I found a smear of silicone grease on the door card trim clips helped them to go into their round holes much easier.

Hope this helps.
The whole process took me 6 hours.

The motors cost £8 (inc P&P) per set from Ali express (I bought two sets)

Jules

Last edited by jules on 27th Dec 2021 8:21 pm. Edited 4 times in total

2nd Nov 2021 11:01 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Excellent information

2nd Nov 2021 11:43 pm

Badger51

Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 962

Great write-up jules, exactly how I did mine but I couldn't be a***d to do a pictorial of it all.

The most time consuming part I found was getting that darned plastic "T" nut out of the handle! (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

3rd Nov 2021 5:03 am

jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

@Badger -thanks to you. You showed me is was possible without cutting open the latch like you have to do on some other cars. Jules

3rd Nov 2021 7:22 am

Dave47

Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1333

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Izmir Blue

Wow Top man Jules,
Excellent guide, I'm sure this will be used many times in the future as
our motors age.
how easy is it on the fingers please?
as I have arthritis in mine and there's not a lot of strength in them. DAVE.

3rd Nov 2021 9:30 am

jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

@Dave47 . I've got sausages for fingers and found it ok.
The hardest bit for me was focussing at things up inside the door using vari-focals - luckily I have a £2 set of +3 specs that I use for just that sort of thing. Jules

3rd Nov 2021 11:37 am

Dave47

Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1333

I know the feeling of trying to do something
with Vari-focals Jules,
thanks for the info, I'll probably give it a go, (when the time arrives) ! we need a crossed fingered emoji DAVE.

3rd Nov 2021 1:40 pm

exengineer

Member Since: 05 Oct 2013
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 34

2012 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

great write up jules.... mine has started to not unlock on first attempt so will be attempting this soon.

thanks

5th Nov 2021 5:15 pm

AndyMc

Member Since: 16 Dec 2020
Location: Northampton
Posts: 18

2014 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Loire Blue

Thanks from me too Jules. Another job on my list,

5th Nov 2021 9:03 pm

jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

very helpful video - covering it all
Jules

9th Nov 2021 12:36 am

william john

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: penn wolverhampton
Posts: 125

2012 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hi Jules, i notice on your instructions you push the glass up and tape it. On the guys video on you tube he puts it half way down and again tapes it. Does it matter which?. Think i prefer your method as your pictures seem more easy to follow and like the detail in them. Cheers.

27th Dec 2021 5:34 pm

davyboy

Member Since: 30 Aug 2020
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 156

2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Santorini Black

Excellent information

Hi Jules well what an informative instruction that was and effort to, where would we be without people like yourself being sharefull,
I wonder if when the country is covid free? we should all try and meet up for a weekend of banter and experiences, plus a workshop?

Just an idea apart from our overseas fellows.

27th Dec 2021 6:13 pm

jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

william john wrote:
Hi Jules, i notice on your instructions you push the glass up and tape it. On the guys video on you tube he puts it half way down and again tapes it. Does it matter which?. Think i prefer your method as your pictures seem more easy to follow and like the detail in them. Cheers.

On reflection its not that clear from my pics what I did exactly.
In order to disengage the glass from the plastic clips on there needs to be some room above the glass so you can push it up and out of the clips. So I dropped the pane about 6cm before unclipping the pane and pushed the pane fully back up so that it was secure in the door frame and taped it there. I was worried about the glass falling by itself and felt it was more secure pushed all the way back up. It gets it completely out of the way for when you are manipulating the regulator and trying to remove the door handle.
Hope that helps.

I'll edit the pics. Jules

27th Dec 2021 8:14 pm

jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5017

Re: Excellent information

davyboy wrote:
Hi Jules well what an informative instruction that was and effort to, where would we be without people like yourself being sharefull,
I wonder if when the country is covid free? we should all try and meet up for a weekend of banter and experiences, plus a workshop?

Just an idea apart from our overseas fellows.

Indeed, I'm looking forward to a Covid free time too- and a future FL2 meet might be fun - our Landy colleagues used to do it all the time. Jules

27th Dec 2021 8:28 pm

william john

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: penn wolverhampton
Posts: 125

Brilliant. Cheers Jules. Now only got to get the part and create some space in the garage to accomodate working with the door open. Luckily it,s almost a double width garage. Got to keep cosy this time of year.

28th Dec 2021 11:30 am

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