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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > FL 2 Lower Control Arms - part nbrs for nuts and bolts
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Bumpf



Member Since: 15 Jul 2021
Location: Perth
Posts: 34

Australia 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Indus Silver
FL 2 Lower Control Arms - part nbrs for nuts and bolts

I'm about to change the front lower control arms on my 2011 Freelander 2 XS. The LR manual says to change all the nuts and bolts.

Part numbers I have so far are:

Ball joint nut = LR000068 M14 x 1.5 pitch flange (not serrated) lock nuts (Item 7 in diagram)
Front bush bolt = LR 000089 M14 x 2.0 pitch. There is a captive nut on subframe. Bolt has some form of grip paste for locking. (Item 3 in diagram)
Rear bush bolts = LR 024150 M14 x 2.0 pitch. Secured with lock nuts (Item 4 in diagram)

The part number I can't find and according to LR Australia, is not on the system, is the nut for the rear bush bolts. I believe it to be a M14 x 2.0 pitch flange (not serrated) lock nut. Anyone know the part number? (Item 5 in diagram)

Note the lock nuts have a steel band, not nylon.

I bet must garages do not bother to change the nuts and bolts!

Click image to enlarge

Post #415093 26th Nov 2021 12:32 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1530

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Those nuts also hold down the rubber anti roll bar bushes

You could google Freelander 2 Anti Roll Bar Bush Repair Kit

Such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173381667002

Post #415097 26th Nov 2021 4:49 pm
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Bumpf



Member Since: 15 Jul 2021
Location: Perth
Posts: 34

Australia 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Indus Silver

Thanks 'I like chips' for the suggestion of using stabaliser bar bush securing nuts. I think however these are M12 (probably part number FX112056).

It did make me think where else are M14 x 2.0pitch flanged lock nuts used on LRs. I came across part number FX114056. Unfortunately LR parts in Western Australia is closed today (Saturday) so I'll follow up on Monday.

Post #415112 27th Nov 2021 12:38 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 959

Australia 
Re: FL 2 Lower Control Arms - part nbrs for nuts and bolts

Bumpf wrote:
I'm about to change the front lower control arms on my 2011 Freelander 2 XS. The LR manual says to change all the nuts and bolts.

Part numbers I have so far are:

Ball joint nut = LR000068 M14 x 1.5 pitch flange (not serrated) lock nuts (Item 7 in diagram)
Front bush bolt = LR 000089 M14 x 2.0 pitch. There is a captive nut on subframe. Bolt has some form of grip paste for locking. (Item 3 in diagram)
Rear bush bolts = LR 024150 M14 x 2.0 pitch. Secured with lock nuts (Item 4 in diagram)

The part number I can't find and according to LR Australia, is not on the system, is the nut for the rear bush bolts. I believe it to be a M14 x 2.0 pitch flange (not serrated) lock nut. Anyone know the part number? (Item 5 in diagram)

Note the lock nuts have a steel band, not nylon.

I bet must garages do not bother to change the nuts and bolts!
Click image to enlarge


FY114056 are the ones you need I think.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FY114056 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #415113 27th Nov 2021 12:49 am
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Bumpf



Member Since: 15 Jul 2021
Location: Perth
Posts: 34

Australia 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Indus Silver

I have now completed the change of the front Lower Control Arms on my MY11 Freelander 2.2D. The nuts and bolts part numbers I gave earlier are all correct.

I found the easiest way to get a bit of extra movement of the wheel knuckle to get the ball joint stud in/out was to:
1. Release the steering ball joint (21mm nut);
2. Remove the hub centre nut (15mm). Push back and loosen the half shaft end in the hub spline. LR manual shows a special tool (a plate that bolts onto the wheel studs and has a central screw to apply pressure) and says don't use a hammer to knock it back.

To tighten up the LCA ball joint nut you need to stop the stud turning with a very short end 6mm hex key. There is little room to get a key in there so I cut one down to 15mm with a standard length arm.

Click image to enlarge



LR manual says replace all nuts and bolts. Nuts are nyloc. Front bush is held in by a bolt but no nut (captive nut on subframe).
- Ball joint flange nyloc nuts is M14 x 1.5p LR000068
- Front bolt is: LR000089 This bolt has dri-loctite (or similar) for locking.
- Rear bolts are: LR024150
- Rear flange nyloc nuts are: M14 x 2.0p FY114056 (this part number was not shown on the LR diagram for the Freelander 2 but I found it elsewhere and they work).

'I like chips' reply regarding the rear bush bolts also securing the stabiliser bar D-bushes was correct (just the link had the wrong bolts). Had I thought about this before I started, I would have sourced the D-bushes and replaced them also as there is little extra work to do this.

Post #415238 30th Nov 2021 9:40 am
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Chrism551



Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 149

2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Can I ask you what make control arms you fitted? I replace mine with Delphi and both hydralastic bushes leaked oil with a few weeks. They were replace under warranty and two months later are same again, Delphi no longer reply to my emails. That said the car drives straight and doesn’t knock as yet, but it’s not great.

Post #417513 23rd Jan 2022 5:00 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2071

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Lemförder are the OE component supplier, so stand a good chance lasting longer.
Delphi used to be a well respected LR OE supplier, but times have obviously changed. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #417534 23rd Jan 2022 8:56 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 556

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Chrism551 wrote:
Can I ask you what make control arms you fitted? I replace mine with Delphi and both hydralastic bushes leaked oil with a few weeks. They were replace under warranty and two months later are same again, Delphi no longer reply to my emails. That said the car drives straight and doesn’t knock as yet, but it’s not great.


I have noted that Delphi drop links on the FL1 and FL2 also the R40 do not last long either, as above they are not what they used to be.

I would keep on at them for a refund as you have given their chance to correct the problem part and it remains the same so a refund is best.

Post #417633 26th Jan 2022 10:19 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 556

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Chrism551 wrote:
Can I ask you what make control arms you fitted? I replace mine with Delphi and both hydralastic bushes leaked oil with a few weeks. They were replace under warranty and two months later are same again, Delphi no longer reply to my emails. That said the car drives straight and doesn’t knock as yet, but it’s not great.


HI Chris.
Over two years now, do you still have your FL2 have you changed the arms again since, did you get any joy from Delphi?

I have new arms on my shelf now just in case for the future.

Post #444519 5th Sep 2024 10:17 pm
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Chrism551



Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 149

2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Hi, sorry for the late reply, Not been on for a while. We ended up changing the car as the list of defects got bigger and bigger so didnt chnage the arms again, nor did we get anywhere with delphi. The matter was conveniently ditched and unfortunately the supplier went bust so a refund or replace was off the menu too. Interestingly the 2012 xs auto we bought handles like a barge and i suspect is in need of exactly the same treatment, but with unknown gearbox issues and the intermittent chugging after a cold start, the suspension is the least of my issues. Really not sure which to tackle first, and where to take it for each bit to get sorted.

Post #444686 14th Sep 2024 11:41 am
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