evening all.

looking for some advise if possible,
a few week ago i noticed on my 2010 FL2 hse a banging/clunking noise when i went on bumpy roads, seemed to be coming from the front end and had been driving me mad as i hate this kind of thing, had a mate look at it who has a ramp but couldnt really see anything and said let it develop, i was away on holiday last week so i took it to my local land rover specialist and left it there for them to fix, came back and they said it was the front drop links so the fitted new ones and an hours labour £108 in total, drove out of there along a bit of a bumpy track and was very happy there was no noise, went out shooting today and on the way there i noticed a couple of the same noises but not as bad, got driving round the farm field and it was back banging and clanking away, its not a rough field and has never been like that before, anyone any idea what it could be as if it was the drop links it should cure it full stop, not just a bit,
many thanks for any answers,

lee

also about the same time when i was doing 50MPH the steering wheel juddered, a mate said it was probably the balancing was out so got the front wheels done as the guy at the garage said it wont be the rear, got up to 50 today and its still the same, wonder if the 2 are linked

50mph judder is 'classic' wheel unbalance.

I don't believe that the FL2 is normally susceptible to wheel balance problems, so I would look carefully at the front suspension linkage and bushes, as well as the bearings.

As a shot in the dark, if the reason is not obvious, The lower control arm has a specialised bush that allows/dampens wheel movement.


The lower control arm assembly comprises the control arm, a rubber bush, a hydrabush and a ball joint.

The control arm is a pressed steel fabrication. The outer end is fitted with a non-serviceable taper ball joint which mates
with the wheel knuckle.

The 2 inner attachments locate in the subframe. The forward attachment is a non-serviceable rubber bush which is pressed
into the control arm. This joint locates in a slot in the subframe and is secured with a bolt which is screwed into a
threaded boss on the subframe.

The rearward attachment is a hydrabush which is located on a spigot on the control arm. The hydrabush has 2 welded
brackets which provides for its attachment to the subframe with 2 bolts and nuts. The hydrabush contains hydraulic fluid
and valves which allow controlled displacement of the bush to improve bump and handling characteristics and also reduce
road noise transmission. The bush becomes progressively stiffer as the forces on it increase, such as severe braking.
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

thanks for that detailed answer mate, i will get all them things looked into,

lee

If it was fixed, and then came back quickly , the shop might have left something loose. Happened to me, they didn't torque one of the shock tower nuts.

IanMetro wrote:

50mph judder is 'classic' wheel unbalance.

I don't believe that the FL2 is normally susceptible to wheel balance problems, so I would look carefully at the front suspension linkage and bushes, as well as the bearings.

As a shot in the dark, if the reason is not obvious, The lower control arm has a specialised bush that allows/dampens wheel movement.


The lower control arm assembly comprises the control arm, a rubber bush, a hydrabush and a ball joint.

The control arm is a pressed steel fabrication. The outer end is fitted with a non-serviceable taper ball joint which mates
with the wheel knuckle.

The 2 inner attachments locate in the subframe. The forward attachment is a non-serviceable rubber bush which is pressed
into the control arm. This joint locates in a slot in the subframe and is secured with a bolt which is screwed into a
threaded boss on the subframe.

The rearward attachment is a hydrabush which is located on a spigot on the control arm. The hydrabush has 2 welded
brackets which provides for its attachment to the subframe with 2 bolts and nuts. The hydrabush contains hydraulic fluid
and valves which allow controlled displacement of the bush to improve bump and handling characteristics and also reduce
road noise transmission. The bush becomes progressively stiffer as the forces on it increase, such as severe braking.

so, took my freelander back to the land rover yesterday, told him about what some of you chaps had said, you can imagine his face i also mentioned someone had the same problem and something was not tightened right, he laughed out loud at that one, got a phone call today to say it was fixed and ready, i asked what i owed and he said nothing as it was just something that needed tightening, so i went round and spoke to the lad who did it and he said it just needed some adjustment on the anti roll bar, think that's what he said, it was something the drop links attach to, so maybe he just didn't tighten something up

if it comes back check the bearing and cap on top of front shock absorber
I had a bumpy noise and the garage gave me that was the problem.
New bearing, more like a plastic spacer, and cap and all fixed.
maybe not what you have but close.
They had done this a few times on Landrovers Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone