Hi, I tend to agree that the 2008 year cars seem to give the most trouble according to the Forums. There is a Mongoose system in the Landyzone forum that might be helpful.

Thank you, glad to know there is a rather cheap car reader that seems to to what professional obd readers do. Today I trowed in the towel and got it to a local garage, it's still in there, and hopefully I get a call in a few days. I will keep the post updated later on.

A little update on this matter. Ended up at the local garage, first of they assumed it was the first injector. After they changed this, they ment it was the rest of them as well. So ordered 3 Moore, 1000$ shorter they arrived. The car was a pain in their ass for a whole week. All injectors was stuck,cso they had to drill the hell out of them. At last I got it back, everything seemed fine, but no. The car now sounds like an old John dere tractor. I talked to them, and they told me it could need some oil change with engine cleaner. But I don't think so, because I just had an filter and oil change this summer. But so next day I was on a longer trip. 15 minutes driving, then guess what, yes limp mode kicks in, and the good old "reduced engine performance" screaming at me. So this was offcourse on a Saturday, so I had to call them back on Monday.
Sio I talked to them on Monday, and then today I got them to have a new look on this crap of a car. "Luckily " this time, it wasn't the injectors that the obd was reading now it was the turbo pressure sensor(p2562 and p2563).
I read about this fault on this forum, and it seems to be a engine earth problem.

So I have 2 questions.

1: can a new set of injectors cause my car to sound like. Tractor?
2: if it could be a bad earth on engine how should I attend this, get the fattest cable and add it with the other cables?

The Injectors need to be coded to the car. Each one has a unique code number stamped on it. Number one is the flywheel end. The engine will not run properly until the codes are entered. There was a recall for an extra earth cable. It runs from the Earth connector (minus) on the battery to an engine starter bolt which has a six mil stud on the head. The Battery needs to be over 12.9 volts to enter the codes. The Boost pressure codes suggest a split hose. I would suggest that you clear all the DTC's first, then see how it goes, as some DTC's do not clear until forty engine starts have occured. The cable is a 16mm flexible black cable with two eye spade connectors. It is part of the 2010 engine loom.

Hi

Yes they have coded them, but the suggested that they could try manual coding instead of auto. But they didn't think that might help, they also think that since I got the parts so cheap from autoco.com that they other refurbished parts or China copy.
No split hoses from what I can see at least, the shortest hose from the middle of engine is new, the other down there I can't take a look before I take the front bumper of, but wouldn't a split hose cause limp mode right away, not 15-20 minutes driving?

So I made my self a 16mm cable now, and was thinkin about adding it to my other ground cables. Where exactly do you recommend to put it when lokking in front of the engine, left or right of the engine?👌

Hi, the Injectors need to be manually coded to the ECU, they do not do it themselves. The earth lead goes to the top starter motor bolt on the bell housing where the starter motor bolts on. The usual hose that splits appears to be the one under the centre of the engine under the Throttle Body. Autoco.com are an insecure site according to my virus software. If the Injectors are Bosch trade-marked, they sshould code to the engine, they are Ford supplied parts. Mondeo, or Jaguar X-Type.

Yes, I guess they ment that they rather put in the values manually rather then the obd recommendation I guess.
I'm sorry, but it's autodoc.co.no.
Oh, ok, I did earlier today just put a new extra ground from negative on battery directly on the engine on the right side just under the air filter box, had a approximately 40 minutes ride, an so far no reduced engine performance, so hopefully it stays that way for a while;)

Thats good, hope all goes well for you now.

Well my 14 plate SD4 68k miles FL2 came up with the reduced performance message yesterday, I had been cruising up the motorway for a couple of hours (so DPF probably OK and fuel filter changed at last serviced so no sign of fuel starvation) and then got stuck in a hold up where we went very slowly for about 15 mins, At some point in the slow moving traffic I noticed the "Reduced Performance" message. As we were dropping someone off at Heathrow decided to carry on but when the road cleared the car wouldn't above about 55mph. Got to the airport and restarted after about 15 mins and message gone. We then drove for about 100 miles with no problems. Car is under extended warranty so if message comes back I will call out LR Assist. I have had situations like this before with FL2s and there is often no fault codes stored 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Dorset, Did you see my post in the thread below?

I had a similar experience to you, fault and clearance by switch off and rest.

I had turbo related codes, that were repeatable, incuding by AA and Main Dealer, but they were cured by Dealer procedure/reset/exercise of turbo.

I've had no fault since. If I were you, I would call LR Assistance for advice and let them sort it out if they agree it's becoming a liability and potentially unsafe in moving traffic.

Mine caused a sudden slowdown on a slight motorway incline. As it was very busy and fast moving it was scary.


https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38618.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

dorsetfreelander wrote:

Well my 14 plate SD4 68k miles FL2 came up with the reduced performance message yesterday...

Well after over 300 miles of motorway driving and a few short trips to and around town there has been no repeat of the "reduced performance" message but if it reappears then I will be calling out LandRover Assist. I did buy a bottle of Redex diesel treatment today and put some of that in the tank so fingers crossed for the moment. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Oh yes, that reminds me to chuck some 2SO in the tank.  Jules