I can see that P is illuminated and not E. Transmission.. module verified

But you don't get the LED blinking

Quote:

Inspection and Verification
The best method to confirm the correct operation of the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is to check the LED (located in
the center of the instrument panel). The LED should illuminate solid for 3 seconds, when the ignition status is set to ON,
and then extinguish. This validates all PATS functions (i.e. the key transponder matches a stored key code, the
challenge/response sequence between the respective modules was successful resulting in the EMS being enabled).

Replace all of your small blade fuses in the fuse box at the passengers feet and in the engine compartment.


I bought these for $8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YP6Z...8&th=1

The contact on the fuse gets oxidized and eventually it won't get the Voltage to destination (in your case the instrument cluster)

To combat this effect I replace all of my fuses every 6 or 7 years

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I decide to replace my fuses for the second time (it has been 6 years)

Here are the old fuses




This Picture shows the contact area - it is really small (Passenger compartment fuse)




Same Fuse but the other side






It is worth noting that the fuses in the engine bay only make electrical contact with one side of the fuse the other side is touching plastic. So unlike the picture above (passenger compartment fuses) the engine compartment fuses are even more susceptible to contact point oxidation.


Replacing all of the fuses took less than 1 hour.



Thanks


Paul

@Mostly Harmless.

Using the Nanocom try doing a CCF sync for a start. If that doesn’t work, use Genesis to download & re-install your “As built” CCF. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

OK, tried to do a CCF re-sync and it failed. Downloaded the as built from Genesis and it failed to load.

Flashed the BCM which seemed to have some issues but told me it was successful.

It still wont start.

Will try changing all the fuses at the weekend but if that fails I'll haul it down to my local indie for them to confirm if it is dead or not.

Given the age it's not worth spending more than a few hundred on it, if that fails then I'll break it for spares. 57 SE i6

Ok, did it say why the CCF sync failed? Try communicating with each module individually & see which one is giving the coms issue. That at least will point you in the right direction of where to look. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Gents, thank you for your help during all this.

My JLR SDD arrived a few days ago and it's taken some time to update and download all the relevant drivers onto my Toughbook.

So this morning I thought I'd spend some time just seeing what SDD can do. So first off I noted that the ICM is not communicating with anything but the BCM is OK

Checked out the security system but could see nothing of concern.

Checked out the CCF and noted a big red cross against the as-built, so reloaded the CCF. This time it succeeded and I now have a running i6 again  57 SE i6

Well I love a happy ending as the bishop said to ….. well done your new toy saved you money on the first go

Mostly Harmless wrote:

Gents, thank you for your help during all this.

My JLR SDD arrived a few days ago and it's taken some time to update and download all the relevant drivers onto my Toughbook.

So this morning I thought I'd spend some time just seeing what SDD can do. So first off I noted that the ICM is not communicating with anything but the BCM is OK

Checked out the security system but could see nothing of concern.

Checked out the CCF and noted a big red cross against the as-built, so reloaded the CCF. This time it succeeded and I now have a running i6 again

It's reassuring to know that SDD did the trick, thanks for the update.

I'd like to give something back to the forum for all the suggestions and help on this one.

I've got Gap IID BT and a Nanocom, both are practically new. I'm not looking to sell them but will happily give them away to two forum members who could use them.

If anyone knows of a deserving forum member (cant nominate themselves) then I'll put the names in a hat and draw the winners at random in lets say 4 weeks. 57 SE i6

Mostly Harmless wrote:

Gents, thank you for your help during all this.

My JLR SDD arrived a few days ago and it's taken some time to update and download all the relevant drivers onto my Toughbook.

So this morning I thought I'd spend some time just seeing what SDD can do. So first off I noted that the ICM is not communicating with anything but the BCM is OK

Checked out the security system but could see nothing of concern.

Checked out the CCF and noted a big red cross against the as-built, so reloaded the CCF. This time it succeeded and I now have a running i6 again

No that you have figured out how to make you 3.2 start

it is time to move on to maintenance

Quote:

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler -
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) – I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
7. Spark Plugs - replaced mine twice (every 50,000 miles, Volvo recommends 75,000 miles)
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
9. Battery – every 4 to 8 years (Low voltage while starting causes electrical gremlins on LR2)
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump (only if it leaks)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
12. AWD Replace CV joint grease in drive shaft joint near catalytic converter
13. Leak detection pump filter clean or replace every 5 years (note: not all markets have a leak detection pump) to prevent code P2402

Thanks for the advice.

This year alone Ive spent about £3k on maintenance including things like flexplate.

Theres not much thats hasnt been replaced 57 SE i6

Flex plate?????


Does your 3.2 have a manual transmission?


We only got the 3.2 and only with the 6 speed automatic transmission.




And I suspect that the American and UK words don't line up (i.e. Hood and Bonnet)


Over here in American English for a clutch we have

- Throw out Bearing

- Pressure Plate (it does flex so I am assuming that you call this a Flex Plate)

- Clutch Disc

- Flywheel



Note: if you aren't referring to the clutch assembly then I am very curious to know what failed


Take care

Paul

PS the list has been compiled from information on this site and another Land Rover site as well as a Volvo forum. I do own two 3.2s one in my 2008 LR2 and one in my 2010 S80. I bought my S80 in 2018 and it needed most of the items on the list. If you defer these items the cost of repair is significantly higher than the cost of maintenance.

Flex plate on an auto connects the flywheel to the torque converter.

No,idea what you call that in the US? Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......